Sofia - Istanbul

Good morning from Sunset Garden!

I never imagined that my ironically labeled "ice hell" regarding my sleeping quarters would become a reality so quickly. Once the place lived up to its name and the sunset was over, the temperatures dropped. At around 4:37 AM, I reached for my smartphone with trembling hands. After warming it for a few seconds between both hands, life returned to the device. Fortunately, I was able to start the weather app, and what it showed matched my situation here behind the tent walls: three degrees Celsius. When I descended into Kadir's realm two hours later, I was met with a wave of warmth. I estimated it to be around 23 degrees. Günaydın!

But then: outside, the sun was shining in a brilliant blue sky, making it quite pleasant despite the still cool temperatures. We tested the mentioned and excellently functioning shower as well as all other facilities that Sunset Garden had to offer. I did the dishes outdoors while Kadir did his morning push-ups, and somehow we both shared the same feeling: simple, yet grand.

Despite this amazing location, we started the Benz and set off towards home, home, grütz, grütz (insider joke). The drive to the border was uneventful. A few kilometers before leaving our favorite group of countries, we switched places. We both agreed that a Turkish Alman at the wheel is better than a real Alman. However, whether this would actually influence the events to come... we are still uncertain.

So we arrived at the world's largest border station and were pleased with the swift process at the first checkpoint. In the left lane, tires were still being changed on a 2002 Renault Scenic, and thanks to several wildly gesticulating colleagues (who were actually passengers in other waiting cars!), we moved ahead quickly. Unfortunately, we once again forgot that this was just the exit process.

So, on we went to vehicle registration, the first Turkish checkpoint. The extremely friendly lady requested Kadir's vehicle documents, and after he handed her the business card of his insurer and the latest TÜV report, even I understood the words of the official: "green something in Turkish." Kadir immediately searched for the green insurance card, which is compulsory in Turkey, and he seemed noticeably more anxious than before. And since my dear friend had adopted all the values and norms after so many years alongside the German passport, THIS was not at all like him. But indeed: this mysterious green card is warm and safe in a binder in Langen/Geestland. At that exact moment, we both caught a whiff of Raki. The driver of a car with a Verden/Aller license plate apparently had at least one bottle of the Turkish national drink fall out of the trunk while opening it. This circumstance would play a significant role about 90 minutes later.

We were summoned to building D3 on the plaza of the border facility. Kadir approached the counter there and learned that we could in fact enter without the green card. However, it would cost a small fee of €500. He was also given the option to present a photo or a PDF file of the proof. Unfortunately, no one was at his house in Northern Germany at the moment. Fortunately, the Bulgarian network still allowed us the wonderful EU roaming here. Therefore, several parallel actions followed: a) a call to the insurance broker we trust, b) a call to Bennett's mother, and c) a call to his grandmother. All three immediately offered their help, and in the end, both Nina and Jutta were quickly informed that the certificate was on its way by email and they did not need to be in Kadir's house.

Once this problem was solved thanks to wonderful people, we were asked to drive into the hall of building D3 half an hour later. And whose car did we see there with a license plate from Verden? The buddy was resting his head on his hands on the upper rim of the steering wheel. Either he was asleep or he had quickly consumed all the Raki supplies...

During our wait in front of D3, we learned that we are allowed to bring one liter of alcohol over 22% and one under 22% per person into Turkey. However, we had prepared for all eventualities and had supplies for several weeks...
We decided that Kadir would answer "yes" to a possible question "Alcohol on board?" A younger officer appeared, who satisfied some clichés with his roughly 15mm short cigarette between his lips. The sports enthusiast from the Verdener car woke up and turned out to be our sidekick we never thought could be possible.

He got out of his car and began to lecture the border officer, while the latter actually intended to check our war car. He repeatedly gestured wildly, and "our" border guard apparently had at most 12% of his awareness left. For less than three minutes, Kadir grinned at me and said that we should quickly get in and leave.

Done, and we had left D3 immediately, rejoicing in life. But what was that? Another border post appeared before us. However, this turned out to be a mere formality, as we were allowed to pass immediately. And then it was really time. TÜRKIYE’YE HOSGELDINIZ!

We drove for a few kilometers until we decided to stop to enjoy the local cuisine for the first time. The further drive north of Istanbul, with a distant view of the skyline and over the Bosporus, was especially marked - yet again - by irritations regarding the toll. Some say this (just drive through everywhere and register within 15 days at a post office to pay for everything), others say that (pay for the distance traveled at the respective stations).

We reached our camping spot in the dark. The Benz was quickly parked, and we enjoyed our chilled beer. The dinner was small since we had eaten on the road. We struggled for a while with the intricacies of group 2, as the hotspot function just wouldn't cooperate. But then we succeeded, thanks to some nerd who had published his solution online. Tastefully, the iPad TV was showing "Einmal Hans mit scharfer Soße" before we wished each other a good night and listened to the sound of the sea about 200m away.