Criminal Ways

Day #50

Friday, June 19.

From Sarköy to Feres

Country: Turkey / Greece

I slept pretty well, even though I eventually had to reach for the earplugs again.

The waves crashing on the shore are just too loud.

I enjoy my breakfast on the beach and delight in the view of the water.

And then it's off to the interior.

My decision to take that stretch of beach yesterday was just right; after the departure, I can only see the sea from a distance.

It starts with inclines and I manage to overtake a truck struggling up the hill with its load; it has a digger loaded.

Off we go on dirt paths, constantly up and down.

So steep that I often have to push.

At times, I'm shown a 30% incline.

How clueless I am, that’s still the pleasant part.

The paths remain bad with sometimes fist-sized stones, and I rarely have asphalt under my wheels.

Though that's only partially true.

There is a longer stretch, but the tar is so fresh that it sweats and sticks.

It looks great on my bike and results in a nice pattern on my legs.

The headwind makes it challenging too, and I know I'm approaching a steep incline.

Then I see a fast lane running parallel at a distance and spontaneously want to take that.

Better the cars than dirt and forest paths.

But when I arrive there, my plan fails before a higher guardrail between the lanes, leaving me with the choice of going back or driving against traffic.

The latter is not a real option.

I could have also taken the highway in the wrong direction to eventually find a crossing.

If I had known what lay ahead, I would have accepted several more kilometers.

Since I'm clueless, I return to the actual route.

And then I stand before an incline that is abnormal.

Such a route suggestion should be prohibited.

But since I don’t feel like turning back again, I face the challenge and begin the ascent.

And even pushing is borderline.

With the brakes firmly in hand, I climb over the gravel.

I move the bike a bit, look for a secure stand, and then I slide down a bit again with my bike.

Once I start, I have to keep going.

Going down would be murderous.

It's very questionable whether I'll reach Greece today after the slow progress so far.

Unfortunately, I lack the capacity to pay attention to the indicated incline, but it’s steeper than the path from this morning.

To put it positively, the ascent is made easier by the fact that I hardly have any water with me.

4km 300hm over gravel

The path is definitely only suitable for goats, one of which I saw a herd of with a shepherd just before.

They can still make it up here, as their droppings show.

More than unsuitable for cyclists.

Plus, there are thistles that scratch my legs and flies that bite me bloody.

Definitely a stark contrast to yesterday.

Meeting a turtle along the way is just a small consolation.

14:30 / 40km / 12.9kmh

Eventually, I reach the top and spend my break with my last supplies.

I urgently need water; I feel a bit faint.

At the first opportunity that arises, I switch to the highway for the descent.

Later, the GPS will send me here anyway.

At a gas station, I hope to get something to drink.

But the shop closed a long time ago.

Fortunately, the two employees fill one of my bottles and invite me for a chai, which I gratefully accept.

The further communication is difficult as I still have to learn to speak Turkish.

But it suffices for my basic needs.

In the next town, my first target is a snack bar.

While eating, I look for accommodation for the first place just beyond the border, which is now only a few kilometers away.

On one hand, I expect strong patrols in the border area and still have the impressions from Bulgaria in my mind.

On the other hand, wild camping in Greece is illegal, and it's already late afternoon, so time for searching is limited.

Moreover, I still have to get over the border, and it’s unclear how long the crossing will take.

And finally, I would like a shower to properly wash off the tar from my legs.

In the last meters before the border, I am accompanied by a local, Deniz, who is very interested in my tour.

Conveniently for him, on the way back from the border to his home, he can directly chat with the next 3 bikepackers who have just entered Turkey.

The passport control takes a while, so it takes time until I’m back in Europe.

So the control takes longer for others; for me, there’s a quick glance at the ID and I'm wished a good trip.

As darkness falls, I arrive at the accommodation, but the check-in drags on once again.

First, I have no Internet, and after that is resolved, I find out that I haven't received any further information after the booking confirmation.

Making it clear to the operators that I want to stay here today takes time again.

Fortunately, the ten-year-old daughter speaks English and can translate.

As compensation, I receive a plate of pasta and pieces of pizza, which compensates a bit and helps through the first hunger before I reach for my own supplies.

Feeling like my room was quickly prepared and having to take a cold shower first are just minor details.

Way too late and completely exhausted, I eventually fall into a deep sleep.

Song of the Day:

Hatesphere - Resurrect with a Vengeance