Spitsbergen, The Archipelago in the Far North

Spitsbergen (Svalbard) is an archipelago consisting of seven islands. The Gulf Stream flows past Norway to the west and influences the climate in Spitsbergen. The west remains ice-free in summer while the east is largely covered by glaciers. The second largest island, Nordostland (Nordaustlandet), lies east of the Gulf Stream in the Arctic Ocean.

Svalbard, the entire archipelago, was discovered by Willem Barents around 1596. Following this awareness, hunting for Greenland whales began in the 17th century. The Pomors, an East Slavic ethnic group in northern Russia, were significantly involved in the exploitation of Spitsbergen, including walrus and Arctic fox hunting for their fur. They brought wood on their ships to build shelters. Legendary figures like the polar bear king Henry Rudi lived from 1908 to 1948 and hunted over 700 polar bears.

John Munroe Longyear discovered coal deposits in Spitsbergen in 1907, founded a settlement, and named it Longyearbyen. The rich coal reserves formed 300 million years ago during the Carboniferous period, when Spitsbergen was still near the equator and covered by swamps. The collision of the North American Plate and the Baltic Plate shaped the sharp mountains.

Until 1925, Svalbard was a no man's land. It was only then that Norway was recognized as sovereign by 144 countries. The conditions were that no taxes could be imposed, no profit could be made, and no military actions could be initiated.

Except for Green Dog;-))

The seed bank has been in Longyearbyen since 2008. The permafrost provides the right climatic conditions for seed preservation. (Unfortunately, there's no photo since only a large metal door was visible:-)

The island group is situated at latitudes 74°-81°, about 1000 km south of the North Pole, and it is dark from November to March.

The polar bear shield applies to all of Svalbard. The polar bear, Ursus maritimus, belongs to the marine mammals and is only about 2 million years young. In contrast, the brown bear, Ursus arctos, is a hefty 12 million years old.

The polar bear can grow up to 2 meters tall, with 300 kg being a normal weight category even for females. They have a 10 cm thick layer of fat and white fur that looks rather yellowish in the fall. Their nose is black, just like their skin, allowing their bodies to warm up more quickly. They have very large paws, also called pads, about 30 cm equipped with a non-slip system, as the soles are hairy. They can live up to 25 years. In Svalbard, there are about, as our trip took place in 2016, 3000 polar bears. The population has somewhat recovered since no polar bears have been hunted in Spitsbergen since 1970.

Barentsburg is a Russian enclave, where Russia secured the coal mines in 1932. Approximately 500 people live here, employed in the tourism sector and coal mining. The Russian Orthodox Church was established in 1996.

The post office in Ny Ålesund is the northernmost. Research and Arctic expeditions began in 1964. The Norge, an airship, started in 1926 with the Italian explorer Nobile. They flew over the North Pole and arrived in Teller, Alaska safely.

The Svalbard reindeer are a bit stockier, have harder hooves for winter, and the females also have antlers. Attempts were made to introduce rabbits and musk oxen here in Spitsbergen, but with no luck. Even the mosses and lichens do not rise higher than 10 cm, as they would otherwise freeze.

Tourism is handled consciously. Due to rapid climate change, there are new environmental regulations and controlled tourism.

A trip to the north instills respect for the inhabitants, the untouched wilderness, and the gigantic wildlife.