Tana - the capital of Madagascar

From the airport, we take a taxi past rice fields until we finally crawl through narrow, congested streets towards the center.

Tana is located in the central highlands of Madagascar and stretches over several hills. With nearly 1.5 million inhabitants, it is the largest city in the country and the political and economic center.

We immediately notice the numerous French vintage cars that are still commonly used. In fact, the taxis have usually been around far longer than we have.😆

For a panoramic view, a visit to the Rova palace is very worthwhile. The complex rises on the highest hill high above the city. Here, the Malagasy kings resided until the French subdued the country as a colonial power in 1896. French is therefore still the most commonly spoken foreign language. Malagasy is the official language. It has a lovely sound with many vowels. Thus, we at least learn the simplest forms of communication: Salama (Hello), Misaotra (Thank you), Azafady (Please), and Veloma (Goodbye).

In the city center, we visit the Analakely market. You can buy almost everything here, and the crowds are correspondingly large…

Madagascar is an Afro-Asiatic country, and the various influences make it so diverse. Colonization began around 350 BC from Southeast Asia, later people from the African mainland arrived.

Madagascar is one of the poorest countries in the world. More than three-quarters of the population lives in extreme poverty. Malnutrition and lack of access to clean drinking water are part of daily life for many Malagasy, especially in rural areas.

During our stroll through the city center, the poverty is clearly visible: Elderly people with tired eyes hold a tin can on their knees. Children in oversized, worn-out T-shirts and tattered pants go from car to car. Some barefoot, some in broken flip-flops. Even mothers with babies on their laps quietly ask for some help.

These images accompany us – they are hard to ignore and touch us deeply.

Despite the impulse to help immediately, we do not give money to children on the street. Many aid organizations advise against it: This can lead to children not going to school anymore, since begging offers more immediate returns.

Giving to adults on the street is also controversial – help should be just and sustainable, which is hardly possible on the go. At the same time, many locals say: Sometimes that's all that counts – a small amount, at the right moment.

We can understand both perspectives well. Thus, we give a bit of money directly here and there – out of respect, compassion, and the desire to help. At the same time, we donate to the Zaza Faly association (“happy child”), which, together with the Malagasy organization MANDA, supports street children and families in Tana.

The capital is stressful, loud, and full of traffic; after three days, we are glad to escape the hustle and bustle. Next, we want to visit two national parks. What we underestimated, however, is that the road conditions are extremely poor. We will need several days to visit two places that are only a few hundred kilometers apart. For this, we have hired an English-speaking driver and guide with an off-road vehicle. Driving ourselves is not an option for us given the challenging conditions.