La Paz - Long Live Bolivia

 

La Paz is the seat of the Bolivian government and has a truly magical charm that captivates us; this city is simply something special! Modern life and Inca culture coexist harmoniously here.

Due to its location in a narrow valley, the million-strong city crawls up the steep slopes. From the wealthy and warmer southern part at 3100m to the poorer section at 4200m, there is much to discover. We stay here for over a week and can't get enough of it.

A network of gondolas connects the various parts of the city, making them quickly accessible.

Our accommodation is perfect and full of charm. The hotel 'El Consulado' is the former embassy of Panama and is very stylishly furnished.

Everywhere there are street stalls, mostly offering something to eat or drink. The Cholitas, indigenous women known for their endurance and friendliness, especially shape the street scene. They are easily recognizable: They wear flat shoes, a wide skirt ensemble (often 6 skirts layered, covering their calves), braided long hair, and a hat.

In the downtown area, historical buildings alternate with shops and high rises. We navigate our way through the crowded main streets.

In the touristy old town, there are plenty of shops selling clothes made from alpaca and llama wool, interspersed with cafes, restaurants, and street art.

 

On the street, we find some delicious snacks as vegetarians: The best are the Yawitas, hot filled pockets with cheese or spicy 😋 As favorite drink, 'Api', a hot drink made from purple corn with cinnamon, cloves, and sugar goes very well with it - it tastes almost like mulled wine but is non-alcoholic.

Also incredibly good is a 'sopa de maní' (peanut soup)👌

 

Coca leaves

The notorious coca plant grows in Peru, Bolivia, and Colombia and is legal there. It is considered a sacred plant by indigenous people and is not comparable to the white powder that is also produced from it. Locals count coca leaves as a staple food: The leaves are brewed as tea or stored in the cheek. They have a similar wakefulness effect as green tea, soothe the stomach, and are particularly effective against altitude sickness symptoms. Often, they are also available in hotels for breakfast.

San Pedro Prison

The San Pedro Prison is one of the most notorious in the world! Coincidentally, our second accommodation is directly in front of the beautiful square in front of it; nothing here seems unsafe or unusual.

The prison is managed by the inmates themselves. The police only stand at the entrance. What happens inside the prison is beyond the control of the state. The inmates' fate depends on whether they have money and what crime they committed. A convicted rapist likely has a slim chance of survival.

There are rooms of different price categories, and rent must also be paid. Those who are incarcerated here also have a job and are allowed to have their family live with them.

The prisoners can leave the prison for a fee, and visitors can also enter after paying an admission fee. In the mornings, a long line of visitors forms: family, friends, but also people who want to sell something in the prison.

In the past, there were even guided tours for tourists. We could easily have a look inside on our own initiative, but it wouldn't be certain that we would come out again the same day.

El Alto

 

 

El Alto (the height) is a standalone city that has developed at the upper edge of La Paz on the high plateau at 4200m. Since space is very limited below, people had to settle up in the height.

El Alto now has over a million people. We explore the sprawling markets - here, bargaining is unnecessary as there are no special tourist prices 👌

In El Alto, there are shops run by shamans who carry out traditional rituals. For new challenges, hopes for success in business or love, and other wishes, customers receive a shopping list and obtain the respective items for the ritual from specialized stores.

Quite peculiar for us: Even today, llama fetuses are integrated into the foundation when building houses! According to our information, some die during birth, and these are then used for this ritual. The Incas believe that something must be given back to Pachamama (Mother Earth).