In the Usambara Mountains

After the hustle and bustle of the huge city of Dar es Salaam, we are now encountering a completely different world: At over 1300 m above sea level, the climate is humid and fresh. The people live off agriculture, and something is planted on every hillside. 

The area is also known as the 'Switzerland of Tanzania', with numerous idyllic hiking routes. There is a diverse wildlife and plant world, remote mountain villages, pristine rainforests, waterfalls, and plenty of panoramic views.

 

Even during the colonial period from 1885 to 1918, many Germans were drawn here! The region with its mild temperatures reminded them of Germany. The Germans founded numerous farms and brought European plants to the region (various types of vegetables, apple trees, pines, among others). At that time, Lushoto was known as Wilhelmstal.

The German colonial power ruled with enormous severity: They expropriated the local population and forced them into plantation work. Cultural traditions and structures were suppressed. 

In what was then German East Africa, the Maji-Maji uprising took place between 1905 and 1907 in the south of the country. The brutal suppression resulted in the deaths of about 200,000 people. After the end of World War I, the British took control of the country. After a long struggle, Tanzania finally gained independence in 1961.

Even today, some buildings from the German colonial period still stand in Lushoto - like the old prison and the police station. Unfortunately, it is not allowed to photograph government buildings in Tanzania, so I better refrain from doing so... However, below is the old post office and a former veterinary clinic for horses!

Especially fascinating: We experience several times at our accommodations how, at dusk, bush babies become active - they are also known as galagos.

These animals are shy but quickly noticeable when their call sounds. They resemble a mix of monkey and cat, jumping skillfully from tree to tree!

After a brief city tour, we start the next day with an incredibly beautiful hiking tour over 4 days. Our guide Kasim from Shambaa Eco Tours is very friendly and also speaks fluent German.

The prevailing rainy season greets us in the first hours with a heavy downpour.

After that, the weather improves, and we quickly admire the first chameleons! In the Usambara Mountains, there is a special species that only occurs there: the two-horned chameleon!

The males are significantly larger and often light green. And the horns are also larger than those of the females!

The females have a darker, usually brown coloration.

Near Lushoto, we reach the Magamba rainforest. Here, there are still plenty of jungle trees. 

We climb up to a mountain with a viewpoint, the fog cover only briefly opens…

Below, there still exists a cave from the First World War where the Germans fought against the British.

During our tour, we meet two female volunteers: Mathilda (from France) and Annika (from near Stuttgart). They accompany us in the following days, together with their guide Chris.

On our hike, we see picturesque landscapes and vast valleys shaped by agriculture! Corn, potatoes, carrots, cabbage, etc. grow here. The soil is very fertile… 

 

We hike over mountain slopes with a wide view of the surrounding area. 

And we keep crossing small, remote villages.

In the middle of the forest, we discover two black-and-white colobus monkeys high in the trees from a distance… (see below in the center of the image).

On the second night, we sleep in a convent in a beautiful setting.

The next day, we cross idyllic, lush green valleys.

Finally, we pass through the Shagayu Forest. Tall trees rise above us!

Just before our last overnight stay, we visit a local pottery workshop.

The women craft various vessels, plates, bowls, cups, etc. in artistic manual work. Unfortunately, our backpack is very full and the beautiful ceramic work is too heavy, so we can only buy small items.

The highlight is definitely the last accommodation in Mtae. On the edge of the Usambara Mountains, we have a unique view over the lower-lying countryside.

The multi-day route through the western Usambara Mountains was one of the most beautiful and varied hikes we have done so far! 🤩

And next, we travel to the foot of Kilimanjaro - to the city of Moshi.