Morocco #3 - stepping out of the comfort zone and feeling homesick for the first time

Personal log entry from the houseboat Betty HH-VX 717: We are writing the year 2024, November 2nd, 14:00

From the uniquely beautiful Erg-Chebbi sand dunes, we head north on November 2nd. This is necessary because the N17 national road into the desert is a dead end and literally runs out into nothing. We pass through the sprawling oasis town of Rissani and then Ar-Rachidia, before turning westward.

As we drive through the small town of Touroug, suddenly boys run into the street and signal us to turn left off the main road onto an unpaved path into the Medina. They say that the road ahead is blocked due to flooding, and we would need to take a detour. We are a bit skeptical and initially continue straight ahead. In fact, the entire road is covered with a muddy sludge about 10-20 cm deep, but it is passable for us. Afterwards, Betty is splattered in mud and looks like a real expedition vehicle. Later, we regret not trusting the boys. We spend the night at a city campsite in Gawaz. This is also Morocco, where the sanitation facilities look as if they haven't been cleaned for months or even years. But the 'manager' wears a tie and a suit... However, one can also find very well-kept campsites. The same goes for the cities. Some cities in Morocco are completely littered, while the next town just a few kilometers away is clean. Is there an engaged municipality? We haven’t found out. Of course, we also meet other travelers in Gawaz that we already know. This time an older couple from the Netherlands with their 4x4 camper, who run a campsite themselves in the Netherlands. Smartly, they close it at the end of September and travel during the winter. Once again, a good opportunity to exchange routes and tips!

The next morning we continue westward. In a small town, we want to buy meat. It is easy in Morocco to recognize the numerous butcher shops: they are painted in striking red and white on the outside, like a lighthouse. Usually, huge pieces of meat hang out in the open before the shop. However, the butcher shops always give a relatively hygienic impression, and so far we have only received good meat. However, meat is expensive by Moroccan standards, about €10 per kilo. The treatment of animals in general by Moroccans is not for the delicate European soul. Something like 'animal welfare' is completely unknown here.

In the evening we reach Toudaha El Oulia, a small oasis town at the entrance to the Todra Gorge. We spend the night in the parking lot of a lonely panoramic road with a breathtaking view of the town, the oasis, and an old, dilapidated Kasbah. Here we are all alone. The only snack bar in the parking lot seems to be closed. We take a walk through the oasis and the kasbah, preparing for a quiet night. When we return to the parking lot, the owner of the snack bar appears. Apparently, he saw from his house in town that potential customers were on