Imperial Whispers in Huế
Published: 27.05.2025
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We are traveling back from Ninh Binh to Hanoi, as our time in the north is coming to an end. One last ride between overpriced coconut coffee and the next 'handmade' souvenir stop – hopefully.
In Hanoi, we have a few hours to spare, which I use to collect my credit card from the bank. It had been retained for reasons unknown to me last time. The process of retrieving the card goes surprisingly smoothly and faster than I would even expect from German institutions. Sometimes, seemingly annoying things have their advantages – I would never have otherwise seen a Vietnamese bank from the inside (which is somehow very cool; they distribute banknotes in packets here), and I had time to revisit a few favorite spots in Hanoi. Also: a deep breath. After a week of sitting closely together, some people in such a group... well, let's say, are prone to complaints.
In the evening, we take the night train to Huế – a 13-hour journey that had been predicted to be a hardship for days in advance. In the end, it’s not that bad at all, especially not in the compartments where we affluent tourists travel. A woman regularly rolls through the aisle with a food cart like on the Hogwarts Express – only with dumplings instead of chocolate frogs. I surprisingly sleep quite well – only once am I awakened by a group of Dutch travelers who, at five in the morning, are singing German hits while exiting. Then we arrive – the first coffee stop tries to ease the sleep-deprived tension a little.
Huế, the imperial city, former capital of the Nguyen dynasty (the last imperial family of Vietnam), welcomes us with sultry warmth and much history evident in old walls and restored palaces, as much was destroyed during the Vietnam War. We see, among other things, the citadel, now protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site, and are allowed into the Forbidden Purple City, which was once reserved only for the emperor and his closest confidants. The place exudes a sense of power whispers – as if something that has already vanished still lingers like an afterimage in the air.
The whispers are drowned out at noon by complaints about the food and in the afternoon by shouting people at the overwhelmed reception of our accommodation. This place is, like some things in the imperial city, newly built and good for photos – in contrast, it is very green, but with less magic. But that’s okay. Amidst the grumbling, I consciously shift the counting – from colors to the things that are so beautiful:
In Hanoi, we have a few hours to spare, which I use to collect my credit card from the bank. It had been retained for reasons unknown to me last time. The process of retrieving the card goes surprisingly smoothly and faster than I would even expect from German institutions. Sometimes, seemingly annoying things have their advantages – I would never have otherwise seen a Vietnamese bank from the inside (which is somehow very cool; they distribute banknotes in packets here), and I had time to revisit a few favorite spots in Hanoi. Also: a deep breath. After a week of sitting closely together, some people in such a group... well, let's say, are prone to complaints.
In the evening, we take the night train to Huế – a 13-hour journey that had been predicted to be a hardship for days in advance. In the end, it’s not that bad at all, especially not in the compartments where we affluent tourists travel. A woman regularly rolls through the aisle with a food cart like on the Hogwarts Express – only with dumplings instead of chocolate frogs. I surprisingly sleep quite well – only once am I awakened by a group of Dutch travelers who, at five in the morning, are singing German hits while exiting. Then we arrive – the first coffee stop tries to ease the sleep-deprived tension a little.
Huế, the imperial city, former capital of the Nguyen dynasty (the last imperial family of Vietnam), welcomes us with sultry warmth and much history evident in old walls and restored palaces, as much was destroyed during the Vietnam War. We see, among other things, the citadel, now protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site, and are allowed into the Forbidden Purple City, which was once reserved only for the emperor and his closest confidants. The place exudes a sense of power whispers – as if something that has already vanished still lingers like an afterimage in the air.
The whispers are drowned out at noon by complaints about the food and in the afternoon by shouting people at the overwhelmed reception of our accommodation. This place is, like some things in the imperial city, newly built and good for photos – in contrast, it is very green, but with less magic. But that’s okay. Amidst the grumbling, I consciously shift the counting – from colors to the things that are so beautiful:
The peaceful breeze at the mausoleum of Emperor Tu Duc.
The joy of our tour guide when I enjoy the food she recommended.
The city in the evening with warm streets and shimmering light.
The smell of colorful incense sticks – and that I get to make one myself.
The world’s best mango smoothie.
No rain.
Light banter at the pool.
Reading a few lines aloud.
A moment at the Perfume River just for me.
Beauty.
Lightness.
Time for whispers.
Thank you!
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