Siena 2025 - Day 4

Friday, September 12, 2025 – Day 4

Even with the windows darkened, I kept waking up, but after removing the hard cushion, I managed to get some decent sleep during the night. Could it be the caffè late in the evening after dinner that’s to blame…? So, up at 8 and off to the city of Siena.

Breakfasting in the warm sun at the Campo and at 11 into the cathedral and up to the “Gate of Heaven” (Porta del Cielo). Through narrow corridors and spiral staircases and out into the walkways under the slanted wooden beams. There, you can see on one hand, that the campanile is not covered with marble on the unseen backside, and on the other hand, how all the statues are heavily supported by steel beams. And wonderful views including shots of the Facciatone and wide vistas of the countryside under beautifully clear weather. Also, a look inside the church from above at the common folk and at the now uncovered 56 image fields in Graffito technique. From mid-October until about the end of June and during Ferragosto, the floor is covered to protect the images. After the descent and tour through the Duomo (see common folk), straight across to the museum and the ascent to the Facciatone.

Even narrower spiral staircases and even better views and overview of Siena. There is much art and history and original parts from the cathedral to see here on several levels. Then purchased some nice souvenirs and found a lovely spot to recharge: Birra Bader. So a nice beer and instead of Trippa (tripe), a tasty Lampredotto (stomach of the beef) in a bun: benissimo! Caffè and gelati and off back home to the pool. Very refreshing and better than getting bitten by mosquitoes, which unfortunately can't be avoided later in the afternoon.

The cathedral is actually called Cattedrale Metropolitana di Santa Maria Assunta, and since it is the bishop's seat, you can see the symbol OPA (=Opera della Metropolitana) everywhere. The campanile was added in 1313, covered with black-and-white marble, specifically dark green serpentinite and white marble. According to legend, this recalls the black and white horse of Senius and Aschius, the two founders of the city of Siena.

In 1317 the cathedral was extended to the Facciatone, and the enlargement of the nave towards the southwest was planned in 1339. However, in 1348, the plague intervened and claimed more than half of the population, so the transept is now the main nave. The apse was created from 1535-1544, there was an earthquake in 1798, and it is still impressive: Duomo di Siena.

19:30: L'Orto & un Quarto, Natural Restaurant in Montalbuccio. Nice garden, but too cold and already too dark; however, they make very exquisite and beautifully prepared food here. For me, however, it was way too fast; by 8 we were done with the secondo. With dolci, it was around 9, but still almost fast food. An upscale tourist spot, a stark contrast to yesterday in the small Osteria in the little Italian village. Another look at the illuminated, nighttime Siena and off to bed at 10:30 PM.