Day 3: Porto Santo - Secret Caves & Fairyland by the Sea

July 18, 2025

After breakfast, we use our small island rental car, which we have booked until this evening, and continue to explore the island.

The husband has decided to climb the large cave 'Gruta de Ana Ferreia'. Apparently, there is a path to it. We saw a trail above the basalt columns at Ana Ferreia yesterday, and we want to test it today.

When we arrive - this time we take the 'good' paved road - only one other family with a rental car is there, who are also climbing the path towards the cave.

However, they turn back soon as the path becomes very steep, and they can't go any further in their flip-flops. At least we are wearing sneakers (my hiking shoes are still in the suitcase, as I didn't expect to need them here on Porto Santo).

The path is a challenge as it is steep and slippery. Halfway to the cave, we can no longer see a path leading up to the cave. There are only old stone terraces with countless cacti and plants where hundreds of snails cling.

My son and I wait while the husband fights his way uphill through the underbrush and struggles past the cacti, climbing the rocks up to the cave.

No, that would not have been for me.

The view is great, but I'm glad I didn't climb up there.

We follow the regular path around the mountain, which seems to lead to another cave on the other side, but this also leads over an unsecured landslide, through underbrush and cacti.

We turn back - this doesn't have to happen.

When we arrive at the parking lot, it is packed. There are jeep tours everywhere, and the jeeps are already piling up on the road to the basalt columns. Crazy! Yesterday and this morning we were almost alone here!

We continue driving with the island car towards the west coast. We want to go to the Miradouro do Furado Norte, which we didn't visit yesterday.

On the way there, we drive along a canyon. It resembles the Grand Canyon / USA - in miniature!

Still nice to look at.

We stop at Parque de Morendas dos Morenos, just before the Miradouro do Furado Norte. Here you can view a rock wall that virtually tells the history of the volcanic activity of the island. There are different colors and volcanic formations, solidified magma columns, basalt rock, etc., and in between dense moss-fern walls where small waterfalls flow down.

Unfortunately, it is very cloudy and windy, otherwise the different colors would probably be more visible.

At Miradouro do Furado Norte, it is very windy, so we only stay here briefly. The viewpoint offers a nice view of Ilheu do Ferro & the lighthouse Farol do Ilheu do Ferro.

We creep back to Calheta Beach along the gravel road, which we wanted to get a closer look at today during low tide.

But first we treat ourselves to a delicious lunch at the restaurant directly on the beach. The tomato soup with onions and poached egg is very tasty, and for dessert, we have some of the best Pastel de Nata we have ever tried. So delicious!

As researched beforehand, it is now low tide around noon.

The goal is the rock gate.

I had hoped that the water would sink so low that one could walk through the gate, but that is not the case. Moreover, stones and rock pieces block the way everywhere, so there is only the view through the gate.

Due to the low tide, the algae-covered black volcanic rocks are all exposed, which makes the algae look bright green in the sunlight and resembles a 'fairy realm' when you look at the many grooves and circular volcanic shaped mini-basins.

I even find a heart-shaped basin!

Simply fascinating!

With my Insta360 camera, I then dive into the small passages and caves as if it were another world 🤪

The midday sun is quite strong, so we drive back to the hotel and treat ourselves to a little break by the pool & the sea before we return the small island car to FIVE Rent a Car in Vila Baleira.

The return at 6 PM goes smoothly. Although we can only find the return parking lot on the second attempt, as the GPS directs us to the shop address in the town center, everything is very close together, and we reach the parking lot of FIVE a few minutes later.

On foot, we walk further into the center, where we look at the town hall, Christopher Columbus's house (he lived in Porto Santo for some time), and various other buildings before we proceed to the pier.

This spot is firmly held by teenagers who jump into the sea at the end of the pier. This seems to be the main attraction for the kids here.

We walk along the beach to the nearest pizzeria for dinner.

We continue along the beach towards the hotel. We first stop at the Pé na Água Beach Bar, where 3 teenagers are sitting. At first, we are unsure if the bar is still open, as all three are clearly underage. However, the oldest confirms that it is still open. We order 2 Caipirinhas and one Mojito.

One of the boys is on the phone (apparently getting the recipe for the drinks), while the other two follow his instructions.

After a few minutes, we receive 'drinkable' cocktails for 6 € each (the mix ratio between alcohol and the rest is not quite right, but it's drinkable).

On the way to the hotel, we pass another small mini-beach bar. Here, two very cheerful ladies are dancing in front of the counter, the beach bar operator is singing behind the counter, and a group of locals is sitting at a table on the beach. Music is playing from the music box. Ah, we will definitely get something to drink here....!?

For a mere 2 € / glass, we get really delicious Sangria - even with marinated 'fava beans' (once again something new to try).

While we drink our drink, we see the Porto Santo ferry from Funchal entering the harbor.

Wow, it's running late? It's already past 9 PM....

The ferry rushes past us at a good speed. I've never seen a ferry move this fast...

This is a nice place to be! We will definitely come back here 😅

As the sun sets, we reach our hotel and fall into bed.

It's beautiful here!

For the statistics:

Walked: 9.6 km

Drove: 25 km

Overnight: Porto Santo Beach & Spa Hotel

Weather: sunny/cloudy, up to +27 degrees