Day 12: Close to Heaven - Pico do Areeio

27.7.2025

Today's Highlights:

• Pico do Areeio
• PR1 Vereda do Areeio
• PR 11 Vereda dos Balcões

This morning we are starting much later than originally planned.

We leave around 8:15, first stop: the gas station around the corner.

It’s a shame we neglected to refuel yesterday. The webcam at Pico showed perfect weather this morning for the sunset 😰

But well, getting upset won’t help anyone, we’ll make the best of today.

Next stop: the Nunnery Valley.

We reach the hotel Eira Do Serrado on the mountain above the Nunnery Valley, at the Miradouro da Eira do Serra, at 9:30. The sun is shining, the view is great, and it’s already pleasantly warm.

My daughter finds a new baseball cap in the souvenir shop, we use the stop for a bathroom break (since we just made a purchase, we are exempt from the 'standard 1 Euro' fee for using the restroom).

My son and I think the flowers around the hotel are really beautiful, and we watch the many bees and bumblebees that are here searching for nectar.

On partly very narrow and adventurous roads, we continue to various viewpoints until we reach Pico do Areeio, the second highest mountain in Madeira.

The parking lot at the viewpoint with a small cafe, souvenir shop, and starting point of the hikes is very small - and overcrowded.

Unfortunately, my husband also has no patience whatsoever and decides that we should get out here and park the car at the lower hiking parking lot Pico do Areeiro P2 and then either walk up or hitch a ride. This could be interesting... it’s very sunny and even here at 1,818m it's already +24 degrees warm, significantly warmer in direct sunlight. To reach the upper parking lot from the lower one, you must either walk the steep 1.2 km road up or take the 700m shortcut (a path through the wilderness) upward.

According to Google reviews, it takes 10-15 minutes... no idea if trail runners wrote that, but in my opinion, it definitely takes more than 10 minutes to cover that distance...

At least my husband takes almost 30 minutes, but not because the path is long, rather because he stood for a long time hitchhiking until two young Portuguese girls showed mercy on him 🙈

My son is plagued by headaches and has no desire for any kind of walking. I sit with him on the observation deck of the cafe and we share a sandwich while my husband wants to run the open part of the trail PR1 Vereda do Areeio with our daughter.

Actually, the trail is much longer, but after 1.2 km it is closed. Recently, there have been landslides and other damages to the path from the mountains.

The narrow path leads over countless steps down and up 90 meters in altitude - constant alternation.

I also pass - there are just too many steps for me. 20 km Levada is no issue, but a final boss of steps unfortunately brings me to my knees - literally.

The two are out for about an hour.

My husband is panting quite a bit and says that the many steps in the 'thin' mountain air are quite exhausting.

We walk down the steep and dusty path to the parking lot - which is actually above the clouds. It looks pretty cool.

Through the clouds, we go down into dense forests where the fog or cloud cover becomes thicker. We reach Ribeiro Frio around 2 PM and have lunch at the similarly named restaurant. My son and I decide on a traditional Acorda, a bread soup.

The taste is quite an acquired one, but we gave it a try 😂

My husband and daughter are better off with the steak sandwich. For dessert, we treat ourselves to a cappuccino/espresso and chocolate cake.

The weather has not improved. It’s still very foggy, but the light rain showers have passed. We walk a little down the road to the starting point of the hike PR1 Vereda do Areeio.

The wide path follows along a Levada, through rock formations to a viewpoint.

The information board promises an observation point 'Balcões' at the end of the hike, where one can find a magnificent landscape: valleys covered by dense laurel forest with characteristic green, and on a clear day, one should be able to see the central mountain range of the island from which Pico do Areeiro, Pico das Torres, and Pico Ruivo rise.

Good to know, because as you can see.....

...today you can see NOTHING!

However, there are again countless birds that are very tame and come to the hand searching for food.

On the way to the car, we pass by the trout farm, where trout of all sizes swim in different ponds.

We drive back towards Calheta over many winding roads. By the way, we only have to drive a few kilometers and we'll be back over the clouds - in the sun!

Totally crazy!

At the vacation home, our 'vacation house cat' is already waiting for us and cuddles next to us for the rest of the evening.

For the statistics:

Walked: 10 km

Drove: 150 km

Overnight: Villa Cró in Calheta

Weather: Sun and clouds, 24-26 degrees

• PR1 Vereda do Areeio

Distance: 1.2 km (2.4 km round trip)
Difficulty: medium
Duration: 1h
Start/End: Pico do Areeio PR 11 Vereda dos Balcões
Highest/Lowest Point: 1,818 / 1,728

• PR 11 Vereda dos Balcões

Distance: 1.5 km (3 km round trip) Difficulty: easy Duration: 1:30 h Start/End: Landstr. 103 (Ribeiro Frio) / Balcões Highest/Lowest Point: 880 m / 870 m