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Machu Picchu and Salkantay Trek (Peru)

Imechapishwa: 06.01.2019

Day 1: On the first day, we were picked up by the shuttle bus at 5 am. We left our backpacks at the hostel because we could only bring 5kg per person. Then we drove for 2 hours uphill for breakfast. I felt a little sick from the altitude. Chewing coca leaves helped me feel better quickly. After another hour of driving, we started our trek: we had an introductory session with our guide Cuseimo. There were twelve of us with him. Then we began. The first steps uphill and I thought to myself: oh god, I'm already struggling to breathe...but I persevered and we took regular breaks. The weather was a mix of sun and clouds, so the hike involved constant layering and unlayering - sweating and shivering. We passed waterfalls, cows, and beautiful landscapes. We reached our basecamp Soraypampa somewhere in the middle of nowhere in the early afternoon and I was glad that I made it. We had soup and hot food for dinner. I already had a slight headache. It must be from the altitude. Then we were allowed to rest in our tents for an hour. It was freezing cold and I was exhausted. But it wasn't over yet: we hiked further up the mountain to a lake called Humantay Lake. It was at 4,200m, so we needed several breaks to enjoy the stunning view. Horses were grazing around us on the mountain. After returning to the basecamp, we had popcorn and dinner. We were so tired that we were in our tent shortly after 8 pm. We were wearing all the clothes we had because it was still freezing despite the thick sleeping bag. It was around 3 degrees outside. Despite fatigue, I stayed awake for a while - excited for the next day.

Day 2: The next morning, we were woken up in our tents at 4:40 am with coca tea. Then quickly brush our teeth, change clothes, have breakfast, and the toughest day of all began. It was all uphill at first. Luckily, we felt better, the headaches were gone. My body had acclimatized to the altitude. Soon, we caught a glimpse of the snow-white Salkantay Mountain peeking through the clouds. We walked through a green valley with a river and later climbed uphill through rocky terrain. From a distance, we saw llamas on the mountains. After about 4 hours, we reached the summit. It suddenly became freezing and windy, and it started raining. So we quickly took photos, performed a ritual where we placed small stones under coca leaves, and put on rain ponchos. From there, it was all downhill. I think it took us seven hours. And it kept raining and raining...sometime around 1 or 2 pm, we arrived at the lunch point. Finally. The food was always delicious: vegetarian soup, vegetables, rice, sometimes fries,...but then we had to walk another 3 hours through the jungle in the rain. We were tired, wet, and our feet hurt when we arrived at Basecamp 2. No wonder. After walking 23km. There were tents again, but they were covered and located on a terrace on the 1st floor of a house. There was even a shower for 10 Soles (€2.50) with hot water.

Day 3: After the last two days being very strenuous, Day 3 was more relaxed. We walked through beautiful nature, passed waterfalls in the jungle, ate small red strawberries and passion fruits growing on trees, and of course, it rained again. In the afternoon, we visited a coffee plantation where we got to taste coffee. Then we went to the hot springs, where we bathed and could just relax. The water was really warm there. In the evening - unspectacularly - we went to bed early in the tent. It was not as cold anymore.

Day 4: today we got to chose: hiking or ziplining. I chose the latter. Anything is preferable to walking right now - understandable after three days of hiking. So off we went. What awaited me was not so thrilling anymore: being harnessed hundreds of meters high and speeding from one mountain to another. Below me was the valley, trees, and the big river. Phew, close my eyes and go. It didn't help. I was so scared and screamed the entire ride. The next round was called monkey style. The same thing but upside down. My heart was racing. The scariest part was walking on a wobbly suspension bridge at that height. It was really long and when I looked down it made me feel sick. Especially because some of the wooden planks to step on were so far apart that I had trouble reaching them. I was so relieved when I made it through. Then we had to climb a ladder alongside a waterfall and zipline one last time, and then it was thankfully over. After lunch, we walked along the railroad tracks, the Inca trail from Hydroelectric to Aguas Calientes. Finally. In the small town, we finally had a hostel. It was December 31, 2018. My friend Moni and I willingly gave up Wi-Fi. Digital detox. Also, we went to bed at 10 pm because the next morning the alarm clock woke us up at 03:15 for Machu Picchu.

Day 5: THE DAY - yes, on New Year's Day, we were woken up at 03:15 by the alarm clock. Normally, I wouldn't even be in bed at that time...but today I wanted to be fresh for what we had been walking for the past four days. We arrived promptly at the bus station in Aguas Calientes at 4:30 am. Yes, bus. The only way to get to Machu Picchu on foot would be a narrow path uphill. There is no overtaking there. It means you can only go as fast as the person in front of you. Between 2000 and 6000 people visit Machu Picchu during the day. That's why we chose the bus. Our entrance ticket was dated for 6 am. Around 5 or 5:30 am, our bus left (a long line of people stood there and several buses were filled one after the other). At exactly 6 am, we entered the famous Inca site. It was cold and foggy. But that added a mystical touch. We arrived at the spot where you get the typical photo view and yes, as touristy as it is, it was still worth it, the feeling of looking at the secret place that the Incas had built and that no one knew about for a long time. Mystical and magical are the exact words to describe my mood there. We stayed there for a while and every time the clouds cleared and the city became visible, we quickly took photos until the veil covered everything again. Then we walked through the city together with our guide Cuzeimo. It was really big and the view of the surrounding mountains was gigantic. I was blown away. Later, when the sun came out, it was hot again. We took our time and walked around the ancient city, letting it sink in. How I would love to travel back in time. Because until today, nobody really knows how it all ended there. They only found many skeletons...After the visit, we took the bus back to Aguas Calientes and then the train and shuttle bus back to Cusco...exciting five days came to an end. We were completely exhausted, but happy that we made it and: we were looking forward to clean clothes and a hot shower! And also a little bit to our phones (five days of digital detox were over ;) )


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