Pubblicato: 05.05.2023
Thursday morning by the sea and the sun is scarce. That was different in the last two days. It spoiled us, so I even thought about jumping into the sea. But then I refrained and preferred to watch the others who dared. A rain front is approaching and we're packing up. Hanging around in 14 square meters in the rain - we've done that before. But it's different here. The experienced motorhome enthusiasts and their travel blogs encourage us, saying that a rain front is usually short-lived and the sun shines again afterwards - and that's exactly how it is. As we drive off and are one bay further, the sun is already shining again. Too late, now we're driving to Le Mont Saint Michel.
This magical place is one of the most visited attractions in France and attracts over 3 million visitors annually (and that with only 27 permanent residents and a minimal size). On the way, we take a few detours to the sea and get to know the coast and the magnificent sandy beaches in the dunes. It opens up a completely different landscape than we have known from Normandy so far.
The sandy beaches and dunes are so vast that the towns and cities seem so small in comparison. We think that you could spend a longer beach vacation here with good weather.
But our next destination drives us forward - the Mont Saint Michel.
This place was built on a rock in the Middle Ages and houses a monastery. Due to the tides, the place was cut off from the mainland every day until a dam was built, allowing tourist streams to reach the island unhindered.
Meanwhile, a huge parking lot for thousands of vehicles has been built on the mainland, including an area for motorhomes. There is also a campsite, several hotels and restaurants, as well as a shuttle bus service to cover the 3 km from the mainland to the entrance of the island.
By the way, the motorhome parking lot is supposed to cost 25 €, and overnight stays are actually not allowed - actually, but everyone does it.
We don't.
The app Park4night points out the possibility of staying overnight on the edge of the parking area, where a shop for regional products is located. The shop closes at 7 p.m. and allows motorhomes to stay on its premises if you buy some products there.
The best wife in the world insists on this place and we are rewarded. A location in the front row with an unobstructed view of Mont Saint Michel cannot be topped. We are happy to buy a few things for about 30,- €.
The very friendly saleswoman at the stand advises us to walk to the island on the dam on the way there and to use the shuttle buses for the return trip, they are free. She is concerned that there may be a little rain in the evening and that the water not only rushes in from the tide but also from above.
Completely clueless, we set off and have already packed our umbrellas just in case.
It is now 3 p.m. and most people are coming towards us. Could it possibly be the right time to visit and the crowds of visitors are subsiding?
Not entirely, as we can see 10 minutes later.
The shuttle bus service is still tirelessly bringing people to the final stop 400 m in front of the entrance.
But why?
We notice the answer ourselves when we start taking photos about 300 m before the mountain and capture the entire place in its magnitude.
How many photos are taken daily of this place? If each photo were a grain of sand that would be separated from the mountain - I'm afraid the place would no longer exist.
But the builders in the Middle Ages have already achieved great things, the monastery and the lower town still exist.
At the time of our arrival, it is low tide and Mont Saint Michel (MSM) is dry. The bay all around is called the Wadden Sea and there are actually several groups walking around under the guidance of (supposedly) trained mudflat guides.
We pass through the entrance gate and first come across a shopping street with souvenir shops, creperies, and restaurants - and lots of tourists. This increases even more as you climb higher through the narrow streets and reach the bottlenecks.
Mont Saint Michel is definitely not suitable for physically disabled people or strollers. But you can still find both here.
The old alleys and walls, the view of the monastery and the abbey on the top of the mountain, the gardens and observation towers, and the approaching tide - combined with a short rain shower, which we wait out under a huge chestnut tree - the place is magical despite the crowds.
Somehow you have the feeling that the old monks are still reading their old books behind the walls and Sean Connery is on the trail of the mystery of the strange deaths - In the Name of the Rose.
I just don't want to imagine what it's like here in the height of summer.
Back at the motorhome (by shuttle bus), we delight in the parking space. The place deserves the highest rating of 5 out of 5 stars.
There were 5 more motorhomes standing next to us at this site and there was no problem at all. The site was locked with a chain after closing time at 7 p.m., so no one could go up or down.
That only opened again the next morning at 10 a.m.
Small summary of the day:
It is true that this place is worth a visit. But we have had enough of the crowds and long for the peaceful Brittany with fewer people and more landscape.
Let's see what comes next.