Don Curry and the Armenian Beers

Don Curry holds a high regard for justice and equality. If his reports were to favor Georgian drinks or wines, Armenian drinks or beers could perceive it as an affront or disadvantage; it would be simply unfair. To refute all this, Don Curry is now dedicating this report to Armenian beers. At the same time, he wants to emphasize that there are also Georgian beers and Armenian wines, and they have indeed found their way into his stomach or have been tasted. However, and on this occasion, Don Curry wants to focus today on the hopped products of Armenian origin.

But not for breakfast. There, he discovered that the rich Armenian yogurt can be wonderfully mixed with apricot jam to create a rounded breakfast dessert. Strengthened by this, Don Curry and Xerra headed to the south of Yerevan. A short stop was made at the Komitas Pantheon, an Armenian cemetery for outstanding personalities of the country. Yesterday, he visited the residence of Aram Khachaturian, today he stood at his final resting place. Also within the city limits is the Erebuni Fortress, with the establishment of which in 782 BC by the Kingdom of Urartu, the history of Yerevan officially began. Don Curry was ready at the beginning of the opening time and was able to be the first and so far only visitor to walk through the small museum and then the fortress, which was built on a steep hill. Astonished and surprised, Don Curry discovered that in addition to numerous foundation and outer walls, even parts of an audience hall with decorative wall paintings had been preserved. Excavations were still underway throughout the site, and Don Curry felt sorry for the archaeologists who were exposed to the powerful sun in the beginning heat of the day. Over time, everything that provided shade had disappeared.

Don Curry made a jump of almost 1000 years at the next destination, and he was by no means the first or only visitor. The Temple of Garni is considered the most important ancient architectural structure in Armenia. It could just as well be in Athens or Rome or anywhere else in the former Roman Empire. The exact date of its construction is still disputed. Experts argue whether it was in the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd century AD. It is certain that the temple was part of a larger complex, which included a Roman bathhouse and later a relatively large Christian church. Furthermore, everything was located in a spectacular location on a rock plateau above a canyon consisting of thousands of basalt columns. Despite the crowds of visitors, a wedding was being prepared according to pagan rites. The bride and a few 'priests' in flowing fantasy robes were already ready.

Don Curry continued on to the mountains. Another hidden gem, perhaps even the most beautiful monastery in Armenia, Geghard, is only 10 km away from Garni. At the end of a majestic rock valley, the monastery church and other buildings were partly carved into the rock and partly complemented by additional stone structures. Unfortunately, a part of these additions was scaffolded, so that some ornate facades could not be fully appreciated. But in this monastery, the real treasure was hidden inside. Each room exuded an almost archaic mysticism, which could compensate even for the restless crowds of people. In the gavit, a concentrated beam of light entered through an opening in the ceiling, causing the person who entered the beam to glow in a dazzling light almost ethereally. In the cave rooms, the monks had carved huge sculptures of animals or crosses into the walls. In another room, a spring emerged, which crossed the entire church. Suddenly, heavenly music resonated from another cave room above the church. 2 female singers and 2 male singers performed a beautiful four-part choir. The four professional voices had so much power in the large cave room that it almost seemed like a real choir singing. Even the crowds fell silent. Don Curry got goosebumps.

Enthralled, Don Curry left Geghard Monastery. This spiritual place could touch him just as deeply as the monasteries of Sanahin and Haghpat, and perhaps even Noravank. He knew that there were still more monasteries on the program for today. Would they be able to keep up after this spiritual high point? Xerra draws attention to earthly problems with the yellow low fuel warning lamp. There is a shortage of gas stations in the mountains, but Don Curry managed to make it to the outskirts of Yerevan. He stopped at the first gas station that had premium fuel and accepted card payment; Xerra swallowed over 70 liters, so the tank must have been completely empty. When it came time to pay, the gas station attendant would not accept Don Curry's card. 'Cash,' he insisted. When Don Curry refused, the manager came over and spent minutes explaining to him in Armenian and Russian that he had to pay in cash with Armenian dram. 'No card,' he summed up the wordy explanation. 'No dram,' Don Curry explained his financial situation. He actually didn't have that much cash with him. As a solution, he suggested that he could get some dram at the next bank. In response, the gas station manager asked for Don Curry's passport as collateral, a understandable measure. However, it was in the 14th Floor Hotel. While the manager and Don Curry continued to debate, the gas station attendant unexpectedly showed up with a card reader, and there was no longer any issue. Don Curry paid with his card, and everyone was satisfied. The gas station manager probably caused the whole commotion in order to avoid credit card fees. Unfortunately, it didn't work this time.

Two more destinations awaited Don Curry in Yerevan. Directly at the entrance of a small park were two so-called dragon stones. In them, one can perhaps see the pagan ancestors of the khachkars. These upright stones, which were mostly carved in the shape of fish or snakes, exist or used to exist everywhere in the Armenian Highlands. The park visitors on the benches were very surprised by the tourist who felt the need to take pictures of these ancient stones. Don Curry felt a similar way at the Avan Cathedral. This ruin of a once significant cathedral is now located in a residential area on the outskirts of the sprawling Yerevan. It can only be reached through narrow alleys. Everyday life takes place in the square next to the cathedral: children play, cars are washed, laundry is hung. And suddenly, Xerra forces her way through the neighborhood, a guy gets out and shows interest in this ancient ruin that does not at all match the surrounding houses. And yet, the former cathedral still seems to be a sacred place for some. Don Curry found cheap icons and numerous burned-down candles in it. Before running far to the next church, why not leave one's requests and prayers here too...

Xerra managed to squeeze her way out of this maze of alleys. Don Curry decided to end his daily program now. After Geghard Monastery, no true highlight could come anyway. But Don Curry didn't plan on doing nothing; he considered a shift in focus: instead of monastery research, now craft beer research. His very first beer in Armenia had been an Apricot Ale from the Dargett Brewery. This brewery operates a brewpub just 500 m from Don Curry's hotel. Since he probably wouldn't have a chance without a reservation in the evening, he simply stopped by at 4:00 p.m.; a free table was no problem at this time. To efficiently carry out a real beer tasting, Don Curry ordered the 'Beer Flight,' a stand with 5 different types of beer in 0.1 liter glasses. Fortunately, the Apricot Ale was included and tasted even better fresh from the tap. As a calorie-rich basis for testing, Don Curry chose typical brewpub food: an American BBQ burger with bacon, caramelized onions, and cheddar sauce. Delicious! For dessert, he treated himself to a slightly sour Cherry Ale and as a digestif, a deep black Russian Imperial Stout full of chocolate flavors and 12% alcohol content. He had now tasted seven of the currently 19 draft beers and had accomplished enough for now. Don Curry can attest that the Dargett Brewery indeed produces craft beer of a high standard that can stand up to international comparison.

After this very late lunch, dinner was completely skipped today. Even a shawarma wouldn't have fit anymore. Instead, he could watch and, above all, listen to a free rock concert from his balcony in the rooftop bar of a neighboring hotel. Don Curry was very satisfied with himself. He had done justice.