From Haines (Alaska) to Haines Junction (Yukon)

15.09.2014

We oversleep the alarm, or it didn't ring - it doesn't matter, because I'm awake at 7.00am and it's dense fog. It's no use going back to the bears in this weather, which we were planning to do half an hour ago.

Since breakfast only lasts for another hour, we still get up. Washing hair and 'a touch of luxury' means that the hair dryer is broken. So we rub, because it's not really cozy outside and we have to go across the yard to breakfast.

The 'lavish' breakfast

At 8.45am we set off, after squeezing our luggage back into the very small trunk of this jeep with skill and cunning.

 I complained again about the room not being cleaned, the broken hair dryer, and expressed my hope that they will remove the drink carton under the bed before next season, as it is about to explode after the leftover wine in it has surely fermented. I receive a $28 refund per night - that appeases me and we have made $56 profit. However, the bill is $219 for 2 nights including tax. That's quite steep for this season and the quality of this room/hotel.

Unfortunately, it's completely overcast, drizzly, and we are freezing in the autumn atmosphere. We drive along a body of water with many sand bars. Apparently, this is the confluence of the Kleheni, Chilkat and Tsirku River. 

We see people emptying a fish wheel, which we were explained about in Dawson at the First Nation Museum, so it is still functioning today. The salmon caught here are weighed directly, and anything under 7 pounds is thrown back into the river.

The Haines Road continues upwards and thus into the fog. Many people have told us that the route from Haines to Haines Junction is the most beautiful they have ever driven. We still don't see much of it and we don't know if the slopes next to us are high or flat. We briefly detour into a highly praised village of the First Nation, but it is so abandoned and full of junk that we immediately drive out the back and continue on the highway. 

After 40 miles, we once again cross the border to Canada. We are grimly asked about pepper spray, tear gas, weapons, and how long we will stay, why we want to go to Canada, and where we are going - then we are allowed to enter.

Soon after, we are at around 1,000m altitude and driving through arctic tundra landscape with fantastic colors. 

The sun is fighting through gaps in the clouds, and where it succeeds, the views are fantastic! However, we can still only imagine the entire mountain scenery. The Haines Highway Summit at 1,070 m is a small resting place for us, although in the car, as there is a nasty wind blowing outside and it's not really warm. 

We continue driving on a gigantic plateau, and occasionally in the gaps in the clouds, we can make out a mountain or two with snow. The vastness of this plain alone is incredible, and you feel like an ant.

Unfortunately, there is no point in stopping at Kathleen Lake. We briefly drive down to the shore, but it's chilly here and the clouds hang low. It's not worth sitting here and freezing. We continue on at a leisurely pace and reach Haines Junction around 4.00pm Canadian time (which is 3.00pm US time). The distance today was only 250km, but due to fog and because the journey was the destination today and not Haines Junction, it took us about 6 hours.

The Visitor Center in Haines Junction is a blast. As remote as this inhabited intersection is, the Visitor Center is huge, new, and great. However, it has two parts. One is operated by the First Nation (Tlingit), which closes at 5.00pm, and the other part is government-run, which is open until 8.00pm. Here, we get to have a chat with a German woman from Frankfurt after watching a movie. The woman has been living alone in Haines Junction for 27 years, where you can find less than 800 residents in 34 square meters (or not). She has a house and works at the Visitor Center in the season, which also closes completely at the end of September. She says that with 5 months of work and 7 months without, you can get through the winter just fine and don't necessarily have to earn money during the winter. In the summer, you harvest vegetables and fruits in the garden, preserve them, buy half an elk or deer, and eat that over the winter. She tells us that the nearest supermarket is in Whitehorse - in Canada - and therefore 157km away, which is normal for her. There is no shop in Haines Junction. One of the gas stations sells a little milk, eggs, and sweets. She doesn't know if the only bakery in town is still open. But she marks on a small local map which establishment is open for breakfast or dinner. There isn't much left.

We drive to the mentioned gas station, which is run by a Chinese man (as are one of the hotels and two restaurants in town…). He sells a few brown bananas, potatoes in small quantities, and more snacks, water, and chocolate. The fuel is a little cheaper at another gas station, and CAD 1.38 twenty Canadian cents cheaper than in the 'big city' Dawson.

If there is one thing you always find, it's a burger joint. In Haines Junction, that's 'Frosty's'. It used to only sell ice cream, but now it is open 365 days a year and has adapted to the desires of the passing customers and now also offers burgers and pizza. 

Frosty's in Haines Junction

The can of beer for CAD 5, the pizza for over CAD 30, a burger with fries for around CAD 15 - these are gourmet prices! Nevertheless, we get a burger here - I'm already bored of them. But who expects a fresh salad here? After two beers, the beer supply at Frosty's is exhausted, because today the local liquor store is closed. Yes, they have a liquor store, which - being government-run - is basically located in the town hall. No supermarket, but a liquor store! There is also neither a doctor (who comes by every 2 weeks) nor a pharmacy or anything like that.

I requested a room on the upper floor at the Alcan Motor Lodge and they gave us an upgrade to the only suite in the building. Otherwise, the hotel is fully booked! Unbelievable! There is a Japanese group with less than 20 people among the guests, and once again it becomes clear that September is still the season in this area, and closing hotels, restaurants, and attractions at the end of August is clearly too early. The suite has two bedrooms and a living area. We have a nice view of the mountains. It's truly a nice hotel, and the internet works well too.

Alcan Motor Lodge

Our suite!

View from the living room window of the Alcan Motor Lodge

We lounge on the two sofas, I transfer my pictures to the tablet, write in my diary, the TV is on. Simply relaxing.

Daily distance: 150 miles/240 km