Stage 119: From Kegen to Shelek

The next day started just like the previous one ended. It kept raining and I struggled to push my bike through the muddy field. At times, it almost got stuck like in Greece, but luckily I could clean off most of the mud with a puddle on the road.

I had made the decision to reach Almaty in two more stages, so that I could finally be reachable again. But there were still about 250 kilometers left to go. On the first stretch, the road looked forbidden again and a driver greeted me with his middle finger while driving very close to me. I still hadn't really warmed up to the country and its people! The journey continued through the rain, and after a long descent, I was freezing. I only briefly looked at the famous Charyn Canyon, which some compare to the Grand Canyon, and bypassed the national park. I wanted to make progress and be back in civilization. To make matters worse, my faithful phone started acting up. I still used it for navigation and kept it in the pocket of my rain jacket. But apparently, that was already too much moisture, and what started with a slight wobble would soon get worse. Along the way, I came across a rest area that advertised Wifi, but unfortunately, there was no Wifi inside.

My mood improved a bit near Aksai, and I met several groups of bicycle travelers. Unfortunately, they were all going in the opposite direction, but I was able to enjoy a good portion of Lagman with two Austrians, which made things better! Later, I went through a small mountain range and from Bayseit onwards, continued on the toll road all the way to Shelek. There, I was able to do some shopping, but of course there was no Wifi again... After 130 kilometers, the sun was slowly setting as I set up my tent. I had made myself comfortable again on a field next to the cemetery. And, of course, I cooked a big meal!