Trekking from Bad Bergzabern to Albersweiler

Starting Situation

The main question is:

Are we both well enough prepared to hike several days through the Palatinate Forest with a backpack weighing 13-15 kg each, and how many ticks will we collect along the way?

Methodology:

• Park the car in Edenkoben, continue by train and bus to Bad Bergzabern
• 4 stages on foot in the southern Palatinate Forest with tent overnight stays in the woods. Information about the camps can be found here.
• Return trip by bus from Albersweiler to Edenkoben

Results

From Bad Bergzabern to Camp Ruine Guttenberg

In Bad Bergzabern, we stock up on water and food at the large supermarket by the train station and look forward to the tour. Sunny weather, temperatures around 20 °C - the best starting situation.

Despite the great weather and beautiful scenery, we encounter only a few people on the 8 km path to the camp: a patient from the clinic in Bad Bergzabern who is taking a stroll, a cyclist on their way home from work, and two mountain bikers doing their training rounds.

On Monday, we are the only guests at Camp Ruine Guttenberg. Camps are often fully booked on Fridays and weekends for months in advance. Many probably still feel tired from the weekend at the beginning of the week...

The camps have compost toilets, but no drinking water. Food can generally be stored in metal boxes. The camping spots have space for about 4 tents, a fire pit, and seating. Everything is in top condition.

After a quick wash from the water bottle, Maria is already ready for a restful sleep from the hike to the first sleeping place.

From Camp Ruine Guttenberg (1) to Camp Vorderweidenthal (2)

Did you sleep well? Of course!

We start the day with coffee and granola bars. After brushing our teeth, the water supply is depleted. This means: we need at least 2.5 liters of water per person.

In Reisdorf, we can refill our water supplies at the village well. The inn is closed, and there are no bakers around.

Hardly have we carried the additional 2.5 kg of liquid weight in our backpacks than we both feel that the comfortable weight of our luggage has been slightly exceeded. It's manageable, but it would be nicer without it. And without water is not great either. ;)

We still trek up to Hirzeck and from there have a great view of Berwartstein Castle and the Palatinate Forest.

On our way lies the nature campsite 'Am Berwartstein', which advertises its inn. We take the detour there, only to find out that the inn is only open on Wednesdays, Fridays, and weekends. The DHL delivery woman tells us that the café in the castle is open.

So let's head up to the castle hill! This is probably the only place where we can get something to eat today. The baker in Vorderweisenthal is only open in the mornings.

The food at the excursion restaurant is fantastic. There is very tasty potato soup, liver dumplings with sauerkraut, and apple pie for dessert. And the prices are unbelievable compared to what one would expect in Hamburg. A real recommendation!

After 4 km, we reach Vorderweidenthal and refill our water supplies at the cemetery.

After steep, what feels like 200 meters of elevation gain, we reach the trekking camp Vorderweidenthal. Again, we are the only guests.

We are already familiar with the facilities; the compost toilets work almost odor-free, which is unfortunately not the case at rest stops along the highways.

Unfortunately, we were attacked by ticks. Neither tick protection socks nor the method of tucking pants into socks helped.

From Camp Vorderweidenthal (2) to Camp Annweiler/Wernersberg (4)

We decide against the 2 km detour to the baker and march directly back to the cemetery to fill our water bottles.

In the Lindelbrunn district, we find the vending machine that we were shown on Google Maps while searching for food. Later, we get some wild boar sausage and the remaining bread from the day before.

In the middle of the forest, we pass the Youth Leisure Facility Lindelbrunn. There, we can exchange the slightly stale water from the cemetery for fresh water. Moreover, the supervisors generously give us a bottle of water. Great atmosphere there.

Just before Wernersberg, we take a short break; the rumbling of thunder can already be heard in the distance. Boldly, we then leave a good shelter at the local soccer field to hurry on into the village. As rain and thunder reach the village, we take shelter at a garage entrance.

At the bakery with an attached village shop, there are linzer tarts, streusel snail cakes, and coffee. Then, we get some water and a few groceries for dinner.

After another 45 minutes, we reach Camp 4. The forest floor is very soft from the rain, and setting up the tent is a bit muddy today. Are we spoiled...

Shortly after our arrival, two more hikers come to the camp. Claudia and Timo started their day from Camp 5, which will be our destination tomorrow. A warning is already given: 'At the end, it goes steeply up again.'

Despite the moisture, we manage to light a fire and enjoy the pleasant warmth.

From Camp Wernersberg (4) to Camp Eußerthal (5)

We start with coffee, granola bars, and muesli for breakfast after we have stowed away almost all our treasures.

In Rinnthal, we refill our water bottles at the village well and raid another vending machine. We take the entire supply of wild boar sausages.

In Eußerthal, we meet a local resident, and we exchange listening for fresh water in our bottles. She has just been upset with her 10-year-old granddaughter for lying to her. This will have a sequel... After 30 minutes, we set off, in a final sprint to the camp in the village.

The last section of the hike is indeed challenging. Almost 200 meters of elevation gain over about 1 km, of which 500 m are level ground. We do not take the regular path but a beaten path through the woods; anyone can do the easy route. And then there’s the heavy backpack...

This place is our favorite. While Camp 4 had a rather gloomy atmosphere, here we enjoy the sun rays shining through the trees.

At Camp Eußerthal, we were the only overnight guests. However, a herd of wild boars passed by at night. The food was securely stored in a locked metal box, and it seems the tent and we did not interest the animals.

From Camp Eußerthal (5) to Albersweiler

We start with impeccable weather and decide to take the regular path to Eußerthal.

We refill our water bottles in the village and set off for Albersweiler.

From there, we take the bus to Edenkofen, where a hotel room and our car are waiting for us.

Conclusion

We managed the hike with the backpacks quite well in terms of strength. About 2 kg less to carry would be perfect and much more relaxed. At home, we need to check which items can be dispensed with and what their weight share is.

Despite tick protection socks, pants tucked into socks, and tall boots, we collected and removed eight ticks (evenly distributed between M and M).

The Palatinate Forest is a fantastic hiking destination; however, the supply of food, water, and potential restaurant visits must be planned in advance.