Day 12 Big Island - Volcanoes National Park & Lava Viewing

August 3, 2022

Today we're heading to the south of the island, Volcanoes NP. Unfortunately, I underestimated the distances on Big Island and therefore booked a cottage in the rainforest next to Volcanoes NP, in the town of "Volcano", shortly before departure. At that time, it wasn't a bargain, but the best solution for our plans today. We packed a suitcase yesterday for today and start after a quick breakfast around 7 a.m.

After a short photo stop at the first large lava fields, we reach the " Southernmost Point in the United States" about 2 hours later. We park our car on the road and walk the last meters on foot. From here, there is only a sandy track leading to the southernmost point.

The sea crashes the waves against the rocks and cliffs and it is quite windy.

Passing many meadows, horses, and ranches, we continue to Whittington Bach Park. We are slightly confused by the term "Beach Park" because there is no beach to be found here. There are lava pools and remains of a former jetty or pier!? We climb the lava a little, look into the small tidal pools, and then continue.

Next stop is the Punalu`u Beach Park. And yes, here there is actually a beach, a black beach. This beach is supposed to be home to a lot of turtles, but we don't see any on the beach. While I enjoy a late breakfast with the kids and settle comfortably on the beach, my husband jumps into the sea with snorkeling equipment. Somehow, I don't really feel like snorkeling. My husband solves the mystery of the turtles. They are all currently on a "feeding tour" and can be found in the water near the rocks. We occasionally see one surfacing in the distance.

The beach park has a fenced-off "lost place". The old and dilapidated buildings are overgrown with plants, walls have been sprayed with graffiti, and everywhere there are signs saying "Do Not Enter". Spooky. A real "lost place"...

Around noon, we reach Volcanoes National Park. Unfortunately, the weather hasn't improved in our favor. It is quite cloudy and the sun has almost disappeared. Oh well, how unfortunate.

We briefly stop at the visitor center, use the restroom, and check the NP map. We decide to first try our luck heading south, destination: Holei Sea Arch.

At the Kilauea Iki Crater Overlook, we stop and catch a brief glimpse of the crater. Unfortunately, due to the many bushes and shrubs, it is difficult to see anything. Just a few meters further is the "Nahuku" Thurston Lava Tube. We are already happy to see so many available parking spaces. Apparently, they are usually in short supply. The reason for that becomes apparent at the entrance of the tube: "Closed".

Oh no.... Our acquaintances were here a few days ago when it was still open. Well, it probably wouldn't be any better than the tube we visited in Hana, Maui. It's a shame, but we can't change it - let's continue.

Next stop: again the Kilauea Iki Crater, but this time right across from the last overlook. Here we can see a bit more, including the tourists on the Kilauea Iki Trail, in the middle of the crater. It looks really cool and we definitely want to hike a trail as well, but the weather doesn't look good and we don't want to walk in the rain. So, let's continue.

We drive along the Chain of Craters Road towards the coast, passing several lava flows and craters. After visiting the Pauahi Crater, the sky opens up. It is pouring - heavily! The windshield wipers are on the highest setting and we can hardly see anything. The sky is almost black, which heightens the dramatic effect with the black lava fields on both sides. You could think it's already 6 p.m. Super... I'm a bit frustrated. Well, actually, we can't complain. It's the first "real" rain since we've been here in Hawaii. So far, we only had a few 5-minute showers.

When we can see the coast in the distance, the rain slowly stops. From now on, the road goes steeply downhill and winds down to the lava coast. After the Naulu Trail Rest Area, we stop at a small parking lot and explore the lava field in front of us. The rain has stopped down here, but everything is wet and slippery. We are totally impressed by the art formations that the lava has left behind. From multi-colored stones to lava layers and intricate symbols. Cool!

Here and there, the first bushes, trees, and flowers have managed to settle in the lava.

After a break, we reach the parking lot in front of the barrier around 2 p.m. From here, we continue on foot to Holei Sea Arch. Meanwhile, the sun is starting to show again a bit and it suddenly becomes warm.

On the way back, we stop again along the road and discover the "old road" that was almost completely destroyed by the lava flow in 1972. However, there are a few gaps where you can still see the road from the lava fields. I want to take a close look at that with my daughter. It's quite impressive!

After a stop at the Mauna Ulu Lookout, we drive to the parking lot of the Puʻu Huluhulu Trailhead. The weather seems to hold up, so we start on the trail. We take a short detour to see the 1969 eruption fissure and then continue on the Napau Trail / Puʻu Huluhulu Trail towards Puʻu Huluhulu Cinder Cone.

Unfortunately, we don't make it all the way there as it starts raining again and we turn back about halfway. What a shame.

At the visitor center, we inquire about the evening eruption viewing, which we have planned for tonight. We are advised to come back to the park after 10 p.m., as the day tourists will have left by then and we will have a chance to find a parking spot. Phew. Okay, it's going to be a long day today...

We continue to the Steam Vents and the Kilauea Overlook, where you can see into the Halema`uma`u Crater. We will take a look at it from the other side tonight and hopefully see red lava. Right now, in daylight, you can only see smoke.

We are pretty exhausted now and leave the park. We want to rest a bit and check into our Alii Cottage in Volcano.

Thanks to Google Maps, we find the Alii Cottages right away and we are already expected. The friendly owner is delighted to have visitors from Europe, tells us about her time of study and how she once traveled Europe, and clearly enjoys telling us about it.

Our cottage is very rustic, with a double bed in the integrated living-sleeping area, bathroom and kitchen downstairs, and a steep ladder leading to the attic where there are 2 more mattresses for sleeping. Our son immediately joyfully takes one of the mattresses and chills out.

I didn't realize that we have a kitchen. Darn, we could have brought noodles and sauce for cooking. The landlady recommends the small shop in Volcano, which is supposed to close in 20 minutes. So we quickly drive back and actually want to buy frozen pizza since we had pasta yesterday. However, the prices in the small store leave us speechless. A basic frozen pizza costs a whopping $16. Uh... no. So, it's pasta again (a package of spaghetti) with (there's only cheesy sauce left) for $15. Well, going out to eat would probably have been much more expensive, but $7 for a pack of spaghetti is quite something...

Around 9:15 p.m., we drive back to Volcanoes NP and immediately find the last parking spot in front of the Eruption Viewing on the Devastation Trail parking lot. From there, we walk about 1 km along the closed Crater Rim Drive until we can already see the red sky in the distance. With a flashlight and cell phone light, we find our way through the crowds (it's crazy how busy it still is here in the evenings) to the viewpoint and can see the lava lake in the distance. To the left of the lava lake, there are frequent eruptions and a lava fountain spews and spits lava meters high. Incredible! I have never seen an active volcano before!!! We are totally thrilled. Unfortunately, I didn't bring a tripod and there is no way to place the camera anywhere, so I'm just taking handheld shots and hoping for somewhat "sharp" images.

I could stay much longer, but my son and husband are tired and urge my daughter and me to finally leave. Hmpf...

We linger a bit longer anyway, I take a picture of the incredibly beautiful starry sky, and then around 11:30 p.m., we return to the cottage where we fall into bed, exhausted.

What an eventful day!