From Peru to Bolivia to Lake Titicaca

With the night bus on the 6th to the 7th of November 2022 from Cusco (Peru) to Copacabana (Bolivia, not Brazil). We are woken up at around 5 o'clock to change buses in Puno (Peru). After about 45 minutes, we are allowed to continue, but we still have to pay the station fees. Unfortunately, our last Peruvian soles were just spent on tea and chocolate... We try to bribe the controller at the gate with our chocolate and, amazinglly, it works! So we get on the next bus and arrive at the border at around 9 o'clock. Here, everyone has to get off and walk across the border on foot. Everything goes smoothly and this time, no one asks us when we plan to leave the country. Just 20 minutes left to Copacabana, on the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca, and we made it after a total of 12 hours.

After not being able to find our hotel because apparently the address is incorrect, and wandering around Copacabana's bumpy and mountainous streets with our luggage for some time, various friendly Bolivians try to help us. Eventually, we finally find ourselves in front of the right door, which actually opens, but no one is waiting for us inside except for a (friendly) dog. No one responds to our calls and no one is reachable by phone either... We just sit on the terrace and wait. Then a door finally opens and the owner of our bed & breakfast comes out. It turns out that the whole village has been without electricity and running water for over 24 hours, and his phone and everything else stopped working. In short, he knew nothing about our reservation and couldn't respond to our calls. But after a few minutes, we can still check into our room and while everything in the village is still not functioning, we go to a restaurant with a gas stove for lunch.

We take a little tour of Copacabana, visit the big city church, and walk along the shores of Lake Titicaca. It lies before us like a beautiful huge blue pearl, sparkling in the sun. The horizon is barely visible. No wonder, as the lake is about 15 times the size of Lake Constance. What we also did not realize is that we are still at an altitude of over 3800 meters here!

The next day we are torn: an (overpriced) motorcycle tour of the peninsula, a stressful tourist tour to Isla del Sol, a private tour to the smaller Isla de la Luna, or just taking the bus to Playa Blanca and chilling? Even though it's the least exciting option, what we need right now is simply beach, sun, water, and tranquility. Yes, we admit it; being long-term travelers can also become stressful... So, we take a taxi with Flore from Belgium for about 3.50€ and head to Playa Blanca. The entrance fee is 25 cents and we are the only bathers around. It must be said that on weekdays, Lake Titicaca is very calm and cozy. Of course, we once again underestimate the sun at this altitude and despite using SPF 50 sunscreen, we get a decent sunburn, but a swim in the lake is very refreshing (we estimate it to be around 15 degrees).

Even during lunch on the nearby small reed islands, we are the only guests. Lake Titicaca is known for its reed boats and islands, but unfortunately, ours is not "authentic". However, there are rainbow trout, which couldn't be fresher. Just happily swimming in the lake and 10 minutes later, they are on our plate (not for vegetarians, but delicious).

We quickly climb up to the viewpoint of a small island (as always accompanied by a friendly stray dog) and enjoy the great view over the lake. Then we head back to Copacabana, where we don't want to miss the sunset from the "house mountain" (Cerro Calvario, 4011m). The path is steep, but the view from the top is wonderful. The wind is relentlessly whistling around our ears, but with warm jackets, we can endure it until the beautiful sunset. We climb down the alternative path in the last light of the day, which is much more difficult than it appears from above... Once back at the city beach, we find a nice restaurant with Flore and try the local beer (which hasn't fully convinced us yet).

In the morning, we pack, have breakfast, and then get on the bus to La Paz. Unfortunately, Carsten is not feeling well in terms of stomach and intestines and he spends most of the 3-4 hour journey sleeping. After about an hour, we cross the lake on a small section with a ferry. The passengers on a separate small motorboat, the bus with all the luggage on a highly questionable tiny wooden ferry boat. We are relieved when it reaches the other side and our things haven't sunk...

Next stop: La Paz!