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First Pilgrim Stamp

Published: 29.06.2026

Oh great!
Oh great!
I thought,
I thought,
First Pilgrim Stamp
First Pilgrim Stamp
I'm really not a coward, but we were alone in the open field, and he looked into my eyes a bit too long for my liking. Eventually, we reached his bicycle leaning against a tree, and he rode off alone. Strange, but somehow also nice, I thought. The interpersonal interactions on my journey are gently increasing. On the first day, there were none, on the second day, there was one silent one, and today, there was a fleeting encounter. I can already picture myself in my mind just before Santiago de Compostela, surrounded by hundreds of people engaged in deep conversations. </p><p>In Ellikon am Rhein, we briefly stopped at the Restaurant Schiff. I had a small beer and a quick bathroom break. Meanwhile, Pipa drank half of the Rhine empty. Between Ellikon am Rhein and Flaach, we crossed a bridge over the Thur. A larger family is standing in the shallow water, splashing and walking around a bit, and I remember with a bit of nostalgia the time when the kids were small and our family was whole. We could have been one of them, such a harmonious and content moment in untouched nature. The closer we got to Flaach, the more brutally we felt the heat. The asparagus fields were cleared, and there was exactly one tree along the path. We sat down under it, exhausted from the heat. I unpacked my cereal bar and realized that I still didn’t have any food for Pipa. So, I handed the bar to her and nibbled on a few nuts. In wise foresight, I had set out with short sleeves and applied sunscreen to my porcelain legs again. In Flaach, we then took the bus to Andelfingen and from Andelfingen the train back to the car. </p><p>In the car, it bugged me that I hadn’t tried to get a pilgrim stamp in Rheinau. So we drove the short distance back to Rheinau to the monastery island. The monastery church was supposed to be open until 6 PM, according to the internet, and there was a stamp inside. It was 5:30 PM, that’s just about perfect, I thought. There were several smaller doors at the imposing church. We chose the middle one and blundered into a well-attended mass. It felt like all heads turned to the entrance to scrutinize the sweaty hiker and the dog with dismay. However, it wasn’t that bad after all. I took off my hat, and we positioned ourselves at the back in the corner to listen to the singing while standing. It was probably an Italian mass, and the large church was almost filled to the last seat. Everyone sang enthusiastically with full voices. A truly magical moment in this beautiful monastery church! I got goosebumps, and I, who almost never, really almost never cries, felt the urge to burst into tears. I held it back, but I couldn't prevent my eyes from getting moist. I had forgotten how atmospheric Catholic masses can be. Aside from one confirmation, I certainly hadn’t been to a Catholic mass in almost 20 years. How devoted the people were, they filled the space with magic. There were even cardinals and nuns present; something special must have been going on, and I was lucky to experience that special vibe. Even Pipa sat motionless, almost reverently beside me, listening to the sounds. We looked at each other; it was just beautiful to share that moment with her. A moment later, I saw a sign that said
I'm really not a coward, but we were alone in the open field, and he looked into my eyes a bit too long for my liking. Eventually, we reached his bicycle leaning against a tree, and he rode off alone. Strange, but somehow also nice, I thought. The interpersonal interactions on my journey are gently increasing. On the first day, there were none, on the second day, there was one silent one, and today, there was a fleeting encounter. I can already picture myself in my mind just before Santiago de Compostela, surrounded by hundreds of people engaged in deep conversations. </p><p>In Ellikon am Rhein, we briefly stopped at the Restaurant Schiff. I had a small beer and a quick bathroom break. Meanwhile, Pipa drank half of the Rhine empty. Between Ellikon am Rhein and Flaach, we crossed a bridge over the Thur. A larger family is standing in the shallow water, splashing and walking around a bit, and I remember with a bit of nostalgia the time when the kids were small and our family was whole. We could have been one of them, such a harmonious and content moment in untouched nature. The closer we got to Flaach, the more brutally we felt the heat. The asparagus fields were cleared, and there was exactly one tree along the path. We sat down under it, exhausted from the heat. I unpacked my cereal bar and realized that I still didn’t have any food for Pipa. So, I handed the bar to her and nibbled on a few nuts. In wise foresight, I had set out with short sleeves and applied sunscreen to my porcelain legs again. In Flaach, we then took the bus to Andelfingen and from Andelfingen the train back to the car. </p><p>In the car, it bugged me that I hadn’t tried to get a pilgrim stamp in Rheinau. So we drove the short distance back to Rheinau to the monastery island. The monastery church was supposed to be open until 6 PM, according to the internet, and there was a stamp inside. It was 5:30 PM, that’s just about perfect, I thought. There were several smaller doors at the imposing church. We chose the middle one and blundered into a well-attended mass. It felt like all heads turned to the entrance to scrutinize the sweaty hiker and the dog with dismay. However, it wasn’t that bad after all. I took off my hat, and we positioned ourselves at the back in the corner to listen to the singing while standing. It was probably an Italian mass, and the large church was almost filled to the last seat. Everyone sang enthusiastically with full voices. A truly magical moment in this beautiful monastery church! I got goosebumps, and I, who almost never, really almost never cries, felt the urge to burst into tears. I held it back, but I couldn't prevent my eyes from getting moist. I had forgotten how atmospheric Catholic masses can be. Aside from one confirmation, I certainly hadn’t been to a Catholic mass in almost 20 years. How devoted the people were, they filled the space with magic. There were even cardinals and nuns present; something special must have been going on, and I was lucky to experience that special vibe. Even Pipa sat motionless, almost reverently beside me, listening to the sounds. We looked at each other; it was just beautiful to share that moment with her. A moment later, I saw a sign that said
Dogs prohibited”! Of course, I had never seen a dog in the church! But I didn’t mind. In the end, I discovered a tiny drawer labeled
Dogs prohibited”! Of course, I had never seen a dog in the church! But I didn’t mind. In the end, I discovered a tiny drawer labeled
First Pilgrim Stamp
First Pilgrim Stamp
First Pilgrim Stamp
First Pilgrim Stamp
My first pilgrim stamp from the monastery church in Rheinau, a beautiful moment!
My first pilgrim stamp from the monastery church in Rheinau, a beautiful moment!
First Pilgrim Stamp
First Pilgrim Stamp
Untouched nature
Untouched nature
Peaceful family moments
Peaceful family moments
Stroll
Dachsen → … → Flaach
Schaffhauser-Zürcherweg
Eat
Restaurant Schiff
$ · Snack
Worth seeing
Klosterinsel Rheinau
Rheinau, Switzerland
Worth seeing
Klosterkirche Rheinau
Rheinau, Switzerland
Tour
Pilgerstempel in der Klosterkirche Rheinau
Activity

Day 3 / June 14, 2026 Schaffhauser-Zürcherweg Dachsen – Flaach

A week later, Pipa and I set off towards Flaach. This time we are better prepared. The waterproof On shoes are indeed very tight, but they have never given me blisters. However, they are not breathable, which made my feet sweat a lot. Fortunately, I noticed that before I set off for several days. This time, I dug out my rarely used hiking boots, slightly too big but comfortable. Additionally, I strapped on my new pilgrim backpack for the first time, attaching the hand-painted scallop shell to the back. Again, we started around 12:00 PM. We are just not early risers. How on earth will that work later when we are forced to leave the hostels early? With a cereal bar and a few nuts, we set off cheerfully.

The path is incredibly beautiful. It runs all along the Rhine, and yet we are well shaded by the forest. From Rheinau to Ellikon on the Rhine, we traverse very rooty paths. A cyclist seems to have not expected the path like this and is carrying his bike. A bit higher up, we sit on a bench. Out of nowhere, a middle-aged man appears and starts talking to me. He was quite communicative. He informed me that there are even bunkers by the Rhine and people grill there.

At a glance

Automatically extracted from the post
Length of time
1 Day
Weather
Summer
Accompaniment
With friends (2)
Mood
CulturalAdventurousRelaxing
Highlights
  • Weg entlang des Rheins
  • Pause im Restaurant Schiff
  • Messe in der Klosterkirche Rheinau
  • erster Pilgerstempel
Equipment
WanderschuhePilgerrucksackSonnencreme
Topics
NatureCultureEatAdventure
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