On the Bruderklausenweg

Day 11: Via Jacobi September 4, 2026 Oberdorf (NW) – Flüeli Ranft (OW)

With slightly stiff limbs, I climb out of the straw at 7:00 AM today and prepare for breakfast. It was cold at night, but luckily I'm not very sensitive to the cold, and I slept well under the wool blankets. The overnight stay plus breakfast at the home of Andreas and Stephanie Waser-Good in Geren1 in Oberdorf costs only CHF 30 for pilgrims reading this! Additionally, one is allowed to enjoy a powdered soup in the evening, use the shower and sanitary facilities, and pet the cows. The lovely farmer does not let me wash dishes, free the wool blankets from the straw, or wipe. She kindly smiled and said that it is all part of the offer. Not to forget the ice cream that was generously offered to me yesterday.

Stephanie brings me an incredible breakfast! She kindly tells me to eat as much as I can and take the rest with me, explaining to me like in a five-star restaurant everything that is in front of me. Milk, cheese, and sausage from their own farm, homemade bread, and muesli. The 'sweet cider' made from their own apples and three different 'jams,' of course homemade from ingredients from their own farm. Ringelotten jam? I've never heard of that! Once she left, I had to 'google' my knowledge gap immediately. Aha, it is supposed to be a juicy, aromatic type of plum. The breakfast tastes fantastic, and I feel very cared for and pampered. After breakfast, I pack my backpack and set off towards Flüeli Ranft. On the main road towards Stans, a pick-up stops next to me. Stephanie laughs as she stretches my lipstick out of the window towards me. Is that the only reason she set out to find me today? I can't even find the words; it's just incredible! If anyone embodies love for one's neighbor, it must be this woman!

Upon arriving in Stans, I first want to get a pilgrim stamp at the distinctive church. At the same time, a petite woman sneaks around the church with a backpack from the other side. “Cornelia!” I call out joyfully a bit too loudly, happy to see her again. What an unbelievable coincidence! If either of us had arrived five minutes earlier or later, we would have missed each other. So we get our stamp and set off together. From here it is still 4.45 hours to Flüeli-Ranft, and of course, it goes steeply 'uphill' again. From now on, the Swiss national holy brother Klaus accompanies us on our way, as our stage today is identical to the Bruderklausenweg. Sometimes Cornelia and I walk together, sometimes one pulls ahead, each at their own pace. It is very pleasant to hike with her. Cornelia is also heading home today. During lunchtime, I want to make a phone call to my daughter, so she walks ahead. I'm sure I will catch up with her somewhere. Again, as it couldn't be otherwise, today we hike almost entirely without shade up the mountain.

The path is very beautiful. Everywhere you find small chapels, flower-decorated shrines, and information boards about brother Klaus's exciting life story and his work over 500 years ago. But unfortunately, there are no fountains in sight, and just at the highest point of the stage, my water runs low. Then I spot three cheerful ladies at their garden seating area in front of the only house in the vicinity. Like the Golden Girls, they sit at the table, laughing, chatting, and drinking white wine. When I burst into their garden, the greetings are loud and I am immediately invited to food and drink in their illustrious 70+ circle. At that moment, there isn't anything I would rather do, but I knew if I joined this lively group, I would never manage to leave today! So I thank them and only ask for a little Hahnenburger. “Oh, what Hahnenburger!” squeaks one and enthusiastically pours the entire mineral bottle bubbling into my bottle. I thank her again warmly; the lively women have really refreshed me. Inside and out!

I have not caught up with Cornelia yet, and once I almost turned incorrectly again when the road finally indicated the approaching Flüeli-Ranft. I noticed at the last moment because something is not right with the signpost. The phone map shows something different. I'm glad, as the app shows a slight descent and I decide to trust the technology. At some point, it switches to a brisk descent, and my poles come in handy once again. In the Ranftschlucht, I look at the Ranft chapel with the hermit's cell of Niklas von Flüe (Brother Klaus) directly attached, when suddenly I hear my name “Aniiiiitaaaa!” being called behind me. Cornelia approaches me briskly but is completely exhausted. “Lost!” she complains somewhat resignedly, and I know exactly where that must have happened. She must have taken a draining detour and had several steeper sections to overcome than I did. I am incredibly impressed by her performance! Her hips and knees have already been operated on, and another operation is not far behind! One last time, we gather our strength and manage the 303 steps from the Ranftschlucht up. Before the post bus picks us up, we sit in the garden restaurant and celebrate our achievement, completely sweaty. Never has a non-alcoholic beer tasted better than today!

Distance today 19 km, 28,210 steps, 525 m up, 257 m down

Insight of the day: -nothing-