Last Days on Koh Tao and Ferry to Koh Phangan

On June 7th, we set off early in the morning to a small beach section near the pier. There lies the Mae Haad Shipwreck, a wreck just a few meters below the water surface, regarded as a popular snorkeling spot. Already in swimwear, but equipped with sturdy footwear, we trekked the roughly 2.5 kilometers over rocks and stones and some small hills to get there. The path through the forest, past the abandoned resort that we had already explored, was beautiful.

As we neared the shore, we were able to observe some young reef sharks, and later a noticeably larger specimen even crossed our path. The wreck itself surprised us with its size. Countless fish of various species swarmed around the remains of the ship.

Afterward, we swam to a beach that was closer to our accommodation where we wanted to go ashore again. Along the way, we encountered large schools of bannerfish as well as several impressively large triggerfish. The titan triggerfish, in particular, can reach substantial sizes of up to 75 centimeters in body length. Unlike the more shy sharks, triggerfish defend their territory very aggressively, especially during the breeding season. Therefore, we kept some distance. Nevertheless, we could observe how some animals chased and even bit other fish.

However, around a rock, there was suddenly a close encounter between me and a triggerfish, which likely startled both of us for a moment, since the fish didn't quite know what to do either, and we stared at each other for quite a while.

From Jansom Bay, there was a lovely view from the water of the dilapidated bungalows of the Lost Places on the hills above the bay. Some parts of the roof structure had already collapsed into the sea. Although the bungalows theoretically had direct access to the water, the strong surf would have inevitably pushed any bathers against the rocks. Perhaps this was one of the reasons why the resort had generated too little revenue. Moreover, it is quite remote: it can only be reached on foot, and there are no shopping opportunities in the immediate vicinity.

This isolation was precisely why we chose the Tao Thong Villa 2. However, whether this holds true for the general public is questionable. The overnight rates were quite high at that time in the Bamboo Huts, aimed more at well-off holidaymakers rather than flexible backpackers. At the same time, Koh Tao is anything but barrier-free. For example, at our accommodation, steep stairs lead down at least twenty meters to the restaurant and beach. A French guest, who was traveling with crutches, therefore spent his days entirely in the restaurant area to handle the arduous uphill and downhill trek only once a day.

After the sea at our beach had been too rough for swimming in the past few days, we could still manage a small farewell snorkeling round on our last afternoon. And we were promptly rewarded when we were able to observe two sea turtles. When they met, they first looked at each other curiously before briefly touching each other's front flippers with their beaks – almost as if they were greeting each other – before going on their way.

On the day of departure, we said goodbye to the extremely friendly and humorous staff member of the accommodation as well as to the old cat Pancake, who had dozed off in our laps several times. He greeted us with a small hunting trophy: a dead squirrel. I initially thought it was a fur toy with a fluffy tail like I used to buy for my cat, but Pancake is not satisfied with such mundane things.

Apparently, this otherwise slow and frail cat successfully hunts various creatures around the resort and had already brought in the second squirrel that day.

Later, we spoke with a neighbor of the resort. The couple planned to emigrate from California in 2021, travel for a few years, and then settle somewhere they like. However, due to the outbreak of Covid, they have been stuck on Koh Tao after just one month of travel and are now managing various social media channels for nearby dive schools, restaurants, and cafes with professional photos. It is always exciting and inspiring to meet other expatriates and hear their stories.

After a wild taxi ride along steep and winding roads (being in the back of the truck makes you feel right in the middle of the action), we arrived at the pier.

For the ferry to Koh Phangan, we had booked tickets for a speedboat – an experience in itself.

Loud pop music boomed from the speaker, and some young women sang enthusiastically along. A Korean man next to us tried to work on his laptop while holding his phone, even though the boat was constantly colliding with waves and you had to hold on to avoid being thrown around. Another passenger was completely unimpressed and peacefully took a nap while his head bobbed from side to side in time with the waves.

Just an hour later, we reached Koh Phangan and walked the two kilometers on foot with our luggage to the accommodation, as the taxis were charging exorbitant prices. With backpacks, you can also move relatively easily, yet I look forward to when we can travel only with hand luggage in the future and not like now, equipped for three months and fully packed with clothing that we want to take to the Philippines.

In our new accommodation, the V-View Beach, we are once again settling into a small bungalow. The complex offers numerous seating options, hammocks, and direct access to the beach. Unfortunately, the water is too shallow for snorkeling, but we want to explore the island a bit more and will surely find some opportunities.

To cool off, we first jumped into the pool and actually shivered a little – an unfamiliar feeling after the past few weeks. Meanwhile, we observed a squirrel cracking a coconut on a palm tree.

In the evenings, the geckos scurried through the room and chased each other along the walls. I hope they catch some mosquitoes too, as my legs are quite bitten up again, and I can't afford any more.

Fortunately, the Betaderm cream from Sri Lanka works very well. It speeds up healing and prevents the bites from getting infected. The first tube is almost empty now. At least Simon has mostly been spared from the pests.