30. Day 27 to Santiago

Yesterday, I found a bar that was still open. I had my coffee there and observed the happenings. Almost every bar has gambling machines, and Spaniards generally show great interest in lottery tickets and sweepstakes. As it gets a bit chilly, I head back to my accommodation. I'm still alone and prepare my meal, which consists of bread with tomato sauce and cheese along with a protein bar. Then, I take some time to rest and enjoy the peace. Shortly after, the owner of the hostel comes by. She is very friendly and asks if everything is alright, mentioning that no one else will come today. So, I enjoy the quiet a day before reaching my goal and go to bed early.

This morning, I got up at 5, and even though I only have 10 kilometers ahead of me, I can start early. And that’s exactly what I do. It is surprisingly warm, 19 degrees, but very windy. I set off, and it’s great that the distance to Santiago soon shows only single digits. I walk along the road and then through rural paths and forests. I see many stars and enjoy the tranquility. Of course, I could have covered this stretch yesterday, but this way is definitely more relaxing, and it's a lovely feeling to arrive like this. If time allows, I would love to always arrive this way. In the dark, Santiago becomes visible. There are a few hills and inclines to climb again, but I enjoy every meter. When I arrive in Santiago, everything feels familiar, and I turn onto the street that leads to the cathedral, arriving there at 7:32. There is no one in the square, and it is still dark. I sit down on the edge and put on my jacket because it’s quite windy here. I made it. Over 1000 kilometers. I never thought I would complete the entire journey, but I still want to walk shorter distances on future paths to savor the journey more.

I sit for over an hour in the square, reflecting on the journey. I am proud of myself, and this shows me that one can achieve anything one sets out to do. This forecourt in front of the cathedral will always hold a bit of magic for me, especially as it was the most profound during my first journey.

Then, I go to the pilgrim office, where 6 other pilgrims from Korea are already waiting. I got lucky because the first 10 pilgrims of each day receive a free lunch. We wait a bit and then it’s time to go. I receive my Compostela and am already happy. I drop off my backpack at the accommodation and then head back toward the cathedral. I meet David again, and we chat a bit. After that, we go into the cathedral, and I wait for the mass at 12 o’clock.

At 11:40, the botafumeiro swings in the church. It is a large container for incense, mounted on the ceiling, operated only by 6-8 strong individuals. It used to be swung often, but nowadays it’s only on special occasions or when someone donates a significant sum of money. But today, I got lucky. The mass afterward was beautiful too. However, it was very crowded. There was a struggle for seats, and it’s unbelievable how many people just film with their phones. I mean, I also made a short video, but not during the mass.

Afterward, I went to the restaurant of the Hotel de Reyes Católicos to enjoy my free meal. Besides the 6 from Korea, there was also one from America and an older couple from Scotland. We chatted. For food, there was water and wine that was constantly refilled. For starters, there was a Galician soup with beans, potatoes, and much more, served with fresh bread and small savory cakes. The main course consisted of potatoes, Pimientos de Padrón, and anchovies, and for dessert, the Santiago cake made of almonds, sugar, and eggs. I wasn’t a big fan of the anchovies, but I was still very satisfied. After that, I returned to my accommodation, took a shower, and lay down in my bed. Fortunately, this time I have a bottom bunk. Outside, the wind is extremely strong. I will rest a bit, and then definitely head out again to get something to eat.

Another person is in the room. He just came in briefly. I grabbed my rain cape and went outside. I immediately realized how intense the wind and rain were. It seems another warning from the government has been issued. Nevertheless, I stroll through the city and am so glad that I don't have to pilgrimage in such weather. Even though it’s Sunday, not much is going on because of the weather. It’s still not too cold. I’m thinking about what to eat next. The supermarkets nearby are closed. So, I’m heading to my favorite shop, where they have the best pizza slices in the city. If it’s closed, I’ll look for something else. That’s the great thing about Santiago; you can find something to eat on every corner, and if worse comes to worst, I can also have food delivered. When it starts pouring heavily, I go into a bar and order a coffee.

For tomorrow, I actually have nothing planned. I wanted to go for breakfast at a place that has good churros with chocolate. Other than that, I don't have much planned, but the weather is supposed to stay like this. Let’s see what I will do.

I go to my favorite bakery and get an eclair with vanilla filling. Then, I head to a great pizza place and grab two fat slices. They taste fantastic every time. Since it’s pouring rain, I go back to my accommodation and eat the eclair there. I’m exhausted and chill in bed for a bit, trying to go to sleep early tonight and sleep in tomorrow, even though it will feel strange not to walk further. It was like that every time on the hike.

With that in mind, I’ll check in tomorrow.