The next morning, the decision is made: we're leaving Norway. Too many campers, too many loud and unfriendly people – and at the same time, we've already experienced so much unspoiled nature in the north that gave us a wonderful picture of Norway. So after a few curves and tunnels, we take the turn toward
Sweden and say goodbye to the Atlantic. Goodbye
Norway – hello Sweden!
After only a short while, the landscape changes completely. Lapland in autumn colors: colorful birches interspersed with dark spruces. We are immediately enamored – even though the weather is distinctly autumnal. Mostly we drive through rain and wind. In Storuman we fill up the gas tank and restock the fridge before heading on to the next camp.
Near Vilhelmina, we find Sågåns Camping – idyllically located by a lake and river, with small cabins and plenty of space. But the joy is short-lived: the mosquitoes, the vampires of the north, are back! So aggressive that we quickly retreat into the van despite a break in the rain. When the campsite turns on its festive lighting in the evening – illuminating literally every corner – Frank drives the van around again, hoping to catch a glimpse of the night sky. But all we see are clouds. There is still a surprise: the railway line we thought was abandoned is very much alive! When a freight train roars past our bed at full speed in the middle of the night, we sit up straight in bed.
The idea of taking a day off here is tossed aside – the next morning we head east again. The rain subsides, but the wind grows stronger. Next stop: Västanåfallet Nature Reserve. The waterfall in the Mjällån Valley drops over 90 meters and is surrounded by remnants of an old ironworks where water power was once harnessed. For the first time, it truly hits us: it is low season in Sweden – everything is closed.
After our little exploration, we continue to Sundsvall, where we finally find fresh espresso beans in a coffee roastery – yay! Then we bravely face the wild weather as we make our way to the next stop: a small marina in Stocka, a village in the province of Gävleborg known for its picturesque surroundings. Once again, just before bedtime, we drive the van around the place to find a safe spot – with gusts at nearly 40 knots and tall trees around, it’s not an easy decision. The night remains restless as the wind shakes the van vigorously.
And then, as if nothing had happened, the next morning is peaceful. In Hudiksvall, storm damage is being cleared in the park while we leisurely stroll through the town. In the afternoon, we head south again. Our camp is located directly by the Baltic Sea, where the Marmen flows into it through a small, but raging stream.
In bright sunshine, we set up our camp right by the swimming spot next to the pier – and begin the next fight against the mosquitoes. After the owner's son mows the lawn, they seem to swarm down on us. So, we prefer to spend the evening fishing by the sea. While we only caught the rubber fish on the line, it was still fun. Eventually, we escape from the vampires of the north and crawl into bed early.
Hello Sweden!
The next morning, the decision is made: we’re leaving Norway. Too many campers, too many loud and unfriendly people – and at the same time, we’ve already experienced so much unspoiled nature in the north that gave us a wonderful picture of Norway. So after a few curves and tunnels, we take the turn toward Sweden and say goodbye to the Atlantic. Goodbye Norway – hello Sweden!
After only a short while, the landscape changes completely. Lapland in autumn colors: golden birches mixed with dark spruces. We’re instantly enchanted – even though the weather is decidedly autumnal. Most of the time we drive through rain and wind. In Storuman we fill up the tank and restock the fridge before heading on to the next camp.
Near Vilhelmina we find Sågåns Camping – idyllically located on a lake and river, with small cabins and lots of space. But the joy doesn’t last long: the mosquitoes, the vampires of the north, are back! So aggressive that, despite a break in the rain, we quickly retreat into the van. In the evening, when the campsite switches on its flood of lights – illuminating literally every corner – Frank moves the van again, hoping to get a clearer view of the night sky. But all we see are clouds. Still, there’s a surprise: the railway line we assumed was abandoned is very much alive! When a freight train rushes past our bed at full speed in the middle of the night, we shoot upright like rockets.
No pause this time – the next morning we continue east. The rain has almost stopped, but the wind grows stronger. Next stop: Västanåfallet Nature Reserve. The waterfall in the Mjällån Valley plunges over 90 meters, surrounded by traces of old ironworks where water power was once harnessed. For the first time, it really sinks in: in Sweden, unlike in Norway, it is definitely low season – everything is closed.
After a short exploration we move on to Sundsvall, where we stumble upon a small coffee roastery and finally buy fresh espresso beans – such a joy! Then we fight our way through wild weather to our next stop: a small marina in Stocka, a village in Gävleborg known for its picturesque surroundings. Once again, just before bedtime, we drive the van around the campsite to find a safer spot – with 40 knots of wind and tall trees all around, not an easy choice. The night stays restless, the wind shakes the van fiercely.
And then, as if nothing had happened, the next morning is peaceful. In Hudiksvall, workers are clearing fallen branches from the park while we take a stroll through town. By early afternoon, we’re on the road south again. Our camp lies directly by the Baltic Sea, where the Marmen flows into it through a small but raging stream.
We set up right by the swimming spot and pier – and immediately start the next battle against the mosquitoes. After the owner’s son mows the lawn, they descend on us in terrifying swarms. So we spend the evening fishing instead. The only catch is the rubber fish on the line, but it’s fun all the same. Eventually, we surrender to the vampires of the north and crawl into bed early.