Bandırma and back

We reach Swilengrad train station on the night of Tuesday (April 23, 2019) around two o'clock. Before leaving the platform, I ask a Turkish conductor if he can imagine us taking the train to Kapıkule. Doesn't seem like it. In the small station hall, I look for a spot for the big one and myself. Then I find out the departure times for the bus to Swilengrad city. The first option is at 4:50 am. That's way too early for me, I'm aiming for the 7:30 am connection. Until then, I'll try to get some sleep on a row of seats. Around seven o'clock, I have a little coffee and then we head out into the cool morning of southern Bulgaria. The bus is on time and we are allowed to board. Upon arrival in Swilengrad, we immediately make our way towards the Turkish border. Along the way, I get a small breakfast treat, but I can't find a ride for the next four hours. At the entrance of Kapitan Andreevo, I take a short coffee break before we reach the border post around eleven-thirty. Half an hour later, we are in Turkey and go straight to Kapıkule train station. There is no train to Istanbul on the same day, the next connection is on Wednesday morning around seven. It is also made clear to me that we are not allowed to stay in the waiting hall until then. So we go back a bit towards the border crossing, where there is a hotel. After a short hesitation, I check in around one o'clock, camping in the border area is not well seen as a rule. After a shower, I sleep through the entire afternoon as we have already covered 19 km until then. In the evening, I organize a small dinner for us, set the alarm clock, and go back to bed.

Wednesday morning, 5:30 am, the alarm rings. I press snooze and go back to sleep. I play this game a few more times until it's time to get up for good. Shortly after six, we check out and walk back to the train station. Despite the concerns of a railway employee, we can take the train around seven. After being asked to change clothes twice, I can buy tickets and we are on our way to Istanbul-Halkalı. Going smoothly. We reach the metropolis on the Bosporus around one o'clock and as we get off the train, we are waved down by a security person. He wants to inform me that I am not allowed to ride the Marmaray Express with this dog. Until now, I didn't even consider it, as it was out of service in January due to construction work. I reassure the man, but decide to try my luck at the next station, as it would be the fastest and most convenient way to the city center. But the train gatekeeper is not swayed by my sad surprised look either. We can't get in here either. So I get some food for the big one and sit down at the next snack bar for tea and pide. Then, around quarter to two, we walk into the hustle and bustle of Istanbul. Within the next three hours, we make our way to Ataköy-Şirinevler metro station. There, before the next attempt to get on a train, it's time for coffee and pastries. I have already bought a ticket for the metro and passed through a turnstile when I am stopped by yet another supervisor. These people are terrible. Once again, we are denied entry. For my invalidated ticket, I receive a voucher for a new metro ticket. The man has a sense of humor. Slightly annoyed, I decide to call it a day and look for a place to stay for the night. About 5 km south, beach areas are marked on my map in the Yeşilköy district. That's where we are going. Around half past seven, I find a potential spot in the fading daylight, set up my tent, and retreat with the big one under the tarp.

On Thursday (April 25, 2019), we wake up to the first rays of sunshine. Everything is quiet outside and we can doze a little longer before it's time for a small breakfast. After calmly packing our travel gear, we head to the ferry dock in Bakirköy. An hour later, I can find out the departure time of the ferry. There is still plenty of time until one o'clock for a coffee. The kiosk owner has taken a liking to Rango and provides him with bread rolls, sausages, and tomato sauce. The big one likes it, and his taste test didn't detect many spices, so I let him have it. Shortly before one o'clock, we are back at the ticket counter and are unexpectedly turned away. Dogs are only transported in a crate. The good man realizes that rather late. The next option towards the city center is the tram. By now, the Zeytinburnu stop is within walking distance. After another 5 km of travel, we can take the tram towards the city center. In the meantime, I have considered taking a ferry from Yenikapı to Bandırma, to the opposite shore of the Sea of Marmara, which would then lead to a detour to Troy. If I can't find a bus, according to the map app, I can continue by train. So we leave the tram at the Aksaray stop and walk down to the Yenikapı ferry dock. There, with the help of a local, I can easily buy a ticket after having some ice cream and coffee. It's scheduled to depart at seven. Until then, I organize a small dinner and take another walk with Rango. Back in the waiting hall of the ferry terminal, one of those security people let me know that I am not allowed to travel with him in the evening, but he can get me a ticket for the next morning at seven. The ship in the evening is too small for Rango!? So once again, I have to find a place to sleep. I find one in a nearby park. Unfortunately, it's not as secluded as the previous night, equipped with plenty of cameras, and the light from a street lamp reaches the tent. So around ten o'clock, I get another visit from a young police officer. My nationality and the ferry ticket allow me to stay until early morning, now approved.

Friday, 5:45 am, the alarm rings. This time I get up fairly soon, as our 'house' still needs to be taken down and packed. By half past six, we've accomplished that and we start the journey again. By 6:45 am, we are at the ferry terminal and are directed onto the ship. I leave Rango in an aisle and look for my assigned seat. I doze off for a while, have some breakfast, and around half past nine, we reach Bandırma. I stop at a small tea house, download some maps, and spend some time there. Then we go to the nearby bus station and look for possible buses. But once again, I'm told that without a crate, there's no transportation. So I go to the nearby train station and ask about the train connection to Izmir. It can depart at four o'clock. The friendly railway employee also shows me the way to the ticket counter, which opens an hour before departure. So there is time for another walk in the nest. At the pier, I offer the big one some chicken, and he suddenly seems interested again. Then I pack up and we go to have tea, mussels, and fish sandwiches, and then I head back to the train station. Right before the building, some know-it-all civilian comes up to me with the already familiar 'dog problem, crate, crate'. And indeed, we are denied entry again at the ticket counter. Even mentioning that we have traveled through all of Europe and already in Turkey by train doesn't help. The man behind the glass tells me that it's not his problem, but mine. He's right! With the regular train, our last public transportation method has now fallen through, which would have allowed us to cover longer distances at once. So the planned 1500 km to 2000 km in Turkey in 2-3 weeks seem impossible. A new change of plans is needed. After thinking it over, I decide to return to Bulgaria in order to take a ferry from Burgas or Varna to Georgia. Unfortunately, this summer I have to choose between Turkey and Central Asia, whether I want to or not. The latter seems a bit more appealing after all. So I book another ferry ride, take another walk in Bandırma, and board at seven with the big one. We arrive back in Yenikapı at half past nine and immediately start looking for a place to sleep. We find one about 2 km away, in the shade of the old city wall near Yedikule. The spot is so well chosen that apparently even the patrolling drones don't notice us.

When I wake up on Saturday morning (April 27, 2019), Rango has a not-so-pleasant surprise waiting for me. The big one vomited inside the tent, probably getting rid of the remains of the sausage sandwich. So I have to clean up before I can have breakfast. Then I fry some of Rango's chicken, and lo and behold, suddenly it seems interesting to the big one again. Then I pack up our stuff and we head to the nearest tram station. On the way, I am once again invited for tea. We are only allowed to board the tram after some back and forth, and then we ride to the Bağçilar terminal. Here, around noon, I treat myself to a coffee and something sweet, and then we head northwest. It's about 15 km to the Ispartakule train station. We make another stop in the Mahmutbey district. Then we pass through Atakent, where we are stopped by Cecil just before four o'clock. She introduces herself as an animal lover, was apparently feeding street dogs, and offers to help Rango. So finally, the big one is driven to the train station in a new SUV. I am kindly allowed to join. Cecil tells me that she has been a pilot with Turkish Airlines for 15 years and owns several dogs and cats. It almost sounds like a private zoo. In Ispartakule, I also get some food for the big one to take with us. Until the train departs shortly after six, I relax on a shady bench. We get back on the train around quarter to seven without any questions of any kind and can travel to Kapıkule. It's crazy. We reach the border around eleven and, in the absence of alternatives, I check into a nearby hotel again.