Central Balkan

On Sunday, April 28, 2019, I start with breakfast at the hotel at the Turkish-Bulgarian border. Then I make my way back to Swilengrad with the Dicken. Unlike on the way there, I can catch a bus back and use my remaining Leva for the trip to the small town about 18 km away. In Swilengrad, I replenish my reserves of Bulgarian currency and can then take the train to the station, which is about 4 km away. Here, there is time for a coffee before we take the next train to Plovdiv. Unfortunately, there is no direct train connection to Burgas, from where I hope to take a ferry to Georgia. So, starting at 2:15 p.m., we sit in the train to the northwest, letting the varied Bulgarian landscape pass us by. Shortly before Plovdiv, a mountain range catches my eye, with its snow-covered peaks shining in the afternoon sun. According to my map, it is the Balkan Mountains. I decide to make a small stop on our way to the Black Sea coast. In Plovdiv, I miss the first possible train to Karlovo and have to wait until just after half past seven. Then we take the next train, which takes us to the city at the foot of the mountain range. We reach Karlovo shortly before nine and walk all the way through the town until we find a spot to camp near the Suchurum Waterfall at its northern edge.

On Monday morning, after breakfast, I pack our stuff and make my way to the city with Rango. I still need to get some provisions and I also want to explore the town. At the market, I manage to find a beef heart for Dicken and some strawberries for myself. Then I leave Rango and the backpack in the shade in front of the local mosque and take a walk in the neighborhood, which is mainly characterized by small two to three-story houses. Despite being in a touristically interesting area, there is not much prosperity here yet. After a coffee, I stock up on food for the next few days and set off into the mountains with Rango. We return to the Suchurum Waterfall and from there, follow a small path into the mountains. Right at the beginning, we have to walk off the trail for a bit. I had been daydreaming and blindly followed Dicken. Luckily, we quickly find the official path again. After overcoming the first rocky hill, we continue north along the Stara Reka. We hike in a wooded gorge and occasionally cross the riverbed. As we walk slightly above the mountain stream, I hear rustling next to us and see a thick, shaggy bottom with a stubby tail tumbling down the slope. As an amateur, I strongly felt like I had just seen a bear. Who knows!? By half past six, we have fought our way for about 13 km to the Balkan Hut at an altitude of about 1100 m. There, I can set up my tent after a coffee and a brief conversation with the hostess. After washing my laundry and then myself in the ice-cold Stara Reka, it's time to get into the sleeping bag.

On Tuesday morning, April 30, 2019, there is no need to hurry, as my clothes and the tent are still damp. So after breakfast, I enjoy a cup of coffee in the hut, write a travel report, and listen to a podcast before I can pack up our stuff and set off again with Rango. It's finally time around half past twelve, and we can continue our ascent into the mountains. We hike along a mountain stream again and then through extensive beech forests. By two o'clock, we have reached the tree line at an altitude of about 1600 m and take a break for a while. Next, we face the ascent to the main ridge of the Balkan Mountains, which reaches over 2000 m in height. The Bulgarians don't bother with switchbacks, it goes straight up the slope. Until we reach the mountain ridge, we still have to cross several snow fields, and then we have made it. As soon as we reach the ridge trail, the weather changes slightly. So far, it has been mostly sunny, but now the wind picks up and the view to the north is mostly blocked by clouds and fog. The ridge trail also takes us through snow fields more often than I would like. So, the indicated 140 minutes to the Botev Hut seem impossible to me. Despite frequently sinking knee-deep in the snow, we make good progress. Rango also holds up bravely and hurries far ahead of me whenever he can. During the last hour, it starts to snow and the wind becomes icy. So, I am relieved when we finally reach the shelter at the foot of the Botev Peak around six o'clock. My hands and feet are frozen, so the warm shower and the dining area with underfloor heating are very welcome. Everything is significantly more luxurious than expected. I use the wifi to let everyone know I'm still alive before going to bed around nine after a small dinner. I decline the offer of a young couple to climb the Botev Peak the next morning around half past five. Sunsets also have their charm...

So on Tuesday, we start the day around eight. I have a small breakfast and enjoy another cup of coffee before we start the ascent to the Botev Peak shortly after ten. The sun is shining, but the snow is still firm enough. So, the hike up the slope is excellent. After reaching the summit, we don't linger much as it is still quite chilly, but immediately begin the descent. The snow on the southern slope is already slightly softer but still easy to pass. In the next 2 hours, we make our way down to the Ray Hut at around 1400 m. The descent is steep and draining, and I need a longer break at the hut. I spend my last Leva on a soup and a coffee, as the overnight stay at Botev was more expensive than expected. After a good hour of resting, we continue our hike shortly after one o'clock. We walk through beech forests, along deep gorges, and finally over hilly bush and grassland until we reach the desired campsite on the edge of the Central Balkan National Park around half past four. After about 15 km and nearly 1800 m of descent, I'm pretty exhausted. I sit in the shade for a while before setting up our tent. The campsite is busy and unexpectedly requires a fee. When a departing family gives me plenty of leftover food, I seize the opportunity to spend the 5 Leva for the campsite fee. Lucky me. Then it's time to feed both Dicken and myself before we spend the evening by the fire with two young Bulgarians.

Wednesday morning (May 2, 2019) greets us with rain. The bad weather suits me just fine, as I take the opportunity to sleep in. Breakfast is not until early afternoon. By the time all our things are dry again, and we set off for Kalofer, it's already around two o'clock. We reach the small town around four. I leave Rango and the luggage in a shady spot, exchange money, and get some coffee and ice cream for myself. According to the posted schedule, a bus to the train station, about 4 km away, is supposed to depart around half past five. Unfortunately, it turns out to be just a simple car, and the driver does not want to take us. So, the last few kilometers also have to be covered on foot. After checking at the train station, there was no need to hurry, as the next train to Burgas only departs at half past one in the night...