2025 - April - Tangier

All beginnings are difficult – Morocco and I had a rough start.

Even the journey was turbulent: At over 60 knots (about 111 km/h), I arrived at the port of Tangier aboard the Mein Schiff Relax, coming from Málaga. A true sailor might find such weather conditions exciting – I, however, could hardly sleep that stormy night. Captain Tom (he only introduces himself by his first name) reassured us three days earlier: His lady, the Mein Schiff Relax, could withstand a list of 45° without a hitch. Thankfully, it didn’t get that steep.

Nonetheless, he had to admit at the morning briefing that the sea had been extremely rough between four and five in the morning. Just before entering the harbor, the water fortunately calmed a bit, and the ship could dock safely.

The view from the window around eight o'clock didn’t promise good things, however: Gray skies, everything murky, and a 78 percent chance of rain. But we didn’t let that discourage us – after all, Tangier, the gateway to Morocco, was waiting to be discovered.

Armed with an umbrella but intentionally without a passport, we made our way to the old town. Why without a passport? We had been strongly warned to keep a close eye on our valuables – the boarding pass was completely sufficient as identification for the police. Of course, Moroccans are not criminals! But where there are many tourists, there are also many opportunities for pickpockets.

Moreover, some things were simply unfamiliar to us – for example, the constant haggling. No sooner had we left the ship than we were approached by countless tour guides and taxi drivers – with dropping prices at every “no.” But this time we wanted to walk, completely without any deals.

Just a few steps further, however, elegant agate crystals called out to us. There was bargaining, laughter – and in the end, we were holding two beautiful specimens for ten euros. So much for our resolution: We’re buying nothing!

Despite the increasing rain and oppressive humidity, we began our exploration of the Medina – the historic old town of Tangier. Surrounded by ancient walls, interwoven with a labyrinth of narrow alleys, markets, and small streets, we soon felt like we were in another world. Despite Google Maps, we lost our bearings several times, suddenly finding ourselves in dead ends and having to backtrack.

Our companions: countless, often scruffy-looking cats. Neutering seems to hardly be a topic here, as in many Arab countries.

In contrast, the call of the Muezzin rang out loud and clear for Friday prayers – and numerous faithful poured reverently into the mosques.

And it continued to rain.

So we sought refuge in the souk, the vibrant market. It seemed there was everything here – even beef with testicles (!). Of course, there were also plenty of spices, fruits, vegetables, and fish.

In a brief pause in the rain, we finally came across a cheerful festive group with musicians, playing in the midst of flowing traffic for two girls in white veils – taken out of the car just for this moment.

Then it started to rain again.

While visiting the Kasbah, the old fortress, it happened: On the slippery stone floor, I thought, “Oh, that’s slippery” – and in the next moment I was sitting on my backside with my left arm sprawled out.

I was quickly helped up but had to gather myself first. Soaked from the fall, with a wet umbrella in hand and drenched from the humidity, I looked quite disheveled. So we quickly sought out a small restaurant.

And who was there – lively and radiant? Isabel Varell! For those who do not know her: presenter, singer, actress – and also aboard the Mein Schiff Relax, as she is part of the inaugural voyage. Despite the rough seas and weather, she looked like she had just come fresh from the makeup room.

After this little disaster and looking a bit rough around the edges, my desire for exploration had temporarily waned. I only had enough energy left to return to the ship.

I am now writing this report, once again somewhat restored, on my (!) balcony – hoping for a later restart for Morocco and me.

Isabel Varell surely had a lot of fun in the city.

P.S.: At exactly the same spot where I fell, an older man also later took a tumble. A truly treacherous pavement.