Despite a flat, things sometimes work out

Day #75

Tuesday, July 14

From Zalužnica to Vrela Mrežnice

Country: Croatia

The morning drags on once again until I’m the last to leave the site.

This is partly due to the suggestions from Niko, the camp site operator.

He is from Slovenia and knows the area well.

He advises me to head to a campsite by the Kupa River.

Only 120 km away, which is no problem for me.

His words make me more cautious.

Especially since I try to avoid having to ride a defined distance.

That just creates stress, and I’m still on vacation, thinking of Beppo.

Nevertheless, I take the time to check out the optional route. It looks promising, and based on some POIs, I program a new route that leads more inland. This area is still unknown to me, and the EuroVelo ultimately only leads back to the sea.

The inclines at the beginning are quite moderate, and it goes over fields, meadows, and through scattered villages.

Since I can’t assess how the air is in the tire, I check it once.

All good, the pressure is stable, as the air pump’s display shows me.

Since I’ve reached the highest point, there’s now a descent along a remote forest road, beside a stream.

Until I turn off into the national park, and apart from one car, I have the path completely to myself.

I have to take a break by a lake because the moment is too idyllic.

The deep blue water is clear and calm, apart from some jumping fish.

Any moment, Winnetou could come around the corner in his canoe.

That wouldn’t be a surprise.

Moving on must be done with a heavy heart, and it’s back into the height through dense forest.

Again, the displayed route on the GPS diverges from the existing path, but since there's only one narrow road, it’s irrelevant.

At the subsequent descent, I see a sign stating that one needs a valid ticket for the national park.

Yes, I must continue without it due to the circumstances and let myself be surprised.

Moreover, I believe that only a specific area to my right is referred to.

And if I understood correctly, that’s the park the family by the lake spoke about.

I'm definitely surprised when I follow the sound of water.

My curiosity leads me to a viewing platform from which I can see one of the largest waterfalls I’ve ever experienced.

On the opposite side of the gorge, the water cascades down in various streams.

Unique, and I'm very glad about my route adjustment.

I briefly stop at a bakery and see three bike packers in a short time.

One is from France and is on her way to Turkey. Thus, she is the second solo traveling woman I encounter.

From her, I learn that the other two who passed by are a retired couple making a world trip by bike.

Sounds like a sensible plan.

Shortly after, I actually have another flat tire.

It announces itself slowly through a different noise and feeling while riding.

Fuck.

At the next opportunity, I leave the main road.

First, I eat the fresh börek and think about what I want to do next.

It’s so annoying; the time could be used so much better.

I decide to change the tube instead of just pumping it up again.

I can’t feel any foreign objects in the tire, and my suspicion is that the adhesive has been released by the heat.

So much for the self-adhesive patches.

It creates large problems to get the tire back on the rim, as the tire levers are wearing out.

Even though they were recommended to me by a bike shop.

After I’ve sweatingly completed everything, I can continue to Slunj.

The waterfalls there are quite nice, but nothing compared to what I’ve seen before.

After a quick shopping trip, I can still ride for a good hour, and my research shows that a Robinson campsite should be after 20 km.

A campsite with rudimentary facilities.

However, when I arrive at the river bend where the campsite should be, I only see a festival area that is being set up.

I just ride onto it since the exact position should be further down.

An employee informs me that the site is now privately owned.

After a brief exchange with his colleague, he tells me a spot where I can pitch my tent.

So back to the road, over the bridge and then through underneath.

This sounds like the instructions for a knot, leading me to a meadow by the river.

Perfect, this way I can camp with permission on the festival grounds and use all the advantages of the location.

This mainly means that after setting up the tent, I can first jump into the clear water of the mountain river to wash off the dirt of the day.

It is very cold; at these temperatures, I can already brace myself for the Soča.

Then it’s cooking time again, which has already become a fixed part of the evening program.

My only concern is whether the cartridge will last for the rest of the trip.

Today I didn't do 90 km, but that's okay.

Basically, I’m already quite close to my goal, and throughout the day, the thought has also crossed my mind that theoretically, I could still ride over Ljubljana.

We’ll see.

It’s somewhat annoying that I have no reception and therefore Jenni has to trust that I’m doing well.

That’s also what the festival advertises. Logically, I will research that further in the future.

Without the internet as a time-waster, I can calmly take care of writing the next report.

In the stillness of the night, I wonder if it will be a headphone festival.

Probably the answer is no, as the entire atmosphere reminds me of the Tolminator, and over that thought, I fall into a deep and restful sleep.

Song of the Day:

Benighted - Nothing Left to Fear