Canyon must be
Day #73 Sunday, July 12th From Vrana to Ruka (Sveti Rok) Country: Croatia What a racket last night. There was quite a storm with unf


Published: 17.07.2026




















Day #74
Monday, July 13.
From Ruka (Sveti Rok) to Zalužnica
Country: Croatia
The new day slowly wakes me, and the first thing I see are mists illuminated by the morning sun gliding over the lake.
The second glance goes to the bicycle, and I'm completely taken aback; there's a dog lying there.
He's just as relaxed as I am after a restful night.
Unfortunately, my supplies are too meager for me to give him anything, even though his begging look is really hard to resist.
Nevertheless, I'm happy for the company.
After all, I feel like someone is listening to me as I comment on my actions and ramble on about random things.
At some point, I toss him a bit of my bread, but he just sniffs it lazily and then turns it down.
So he seems to be well taken care of.
First, I head back onto the EuroVelo or rather TransDinarica, assuming it will take me along quieter back roads. This assumption is confirmed.
The two routes are identical all the way to Gospić, and then I want to rethink which direction I should go next.
Hardly have I set off when two bikepackers from Switzerland catch up to me, and we ride at a decent pace through the hilly landscape dotted with small forests, fields, and scattered villages.
When we arrive, we have the same goal, taking advantage of the city's opportunity to generously stock up on supplies at the supermarket.
The TransDinarica leads from here back towards the coast, which I already know quite well.
Therefore, I want to stay more inland and decide to continue following the EV, and we wish each other a good journey ahead.
For me, that means first getting a coffee at the central square.
Finally filling up on caffeine and letting my decision settle in.
Overall, the stop has turned out to be much longer, but that's okay since we've already covered several kilometers at a brisk pace in the morning.
The tour is definitely also an educational journey, and I ride through Smiljan, a very small village.
This place is especially famous because of one person.
This is where Nikola Tesla was born, to whom we owe many achievements that significantly ease our lives today.
The route takes me along another turquoise-blue river that runs below the road, and I would love to jump in.
The desire is fulfilled, and shortly after, I can ride down a path to the water.
Besides, it’s about time for something to eat, making it the perfect opportunity for the next break.
Off to the water and then to grab a bite. Afterwards, I would like to dive back into the cool water, but the road calls.
As has been the case all day, I continue on a wonderful ups and downs over asphalt, so despite the lengthy breaks, I can cover a good distance.
The road often winds its way through an agricultural area, with the mountains in the distance appearing much flatter, and I can always gain good speed downhill, bringing me up to the next hill.
In a village, I refill my water supplies, and when I come out of the shop, I realize that the GPS is acting up.
It has jumped, and my location is now off by 200m from the route.
Since there are few roads, it’s initially not a problem to connect my position with the displayed paths.
Over time, my position gradually gets closer to the route and the roads again until it matches up again.
Very strange.
In the area, everything is quite built up or visible, so I’m heading to another campsite for simplicity's sake.
There are only a few guests there, and there's plenty of room between the fruit trees in the meadow.
Among others, I meet two Dutch bikepackers who are on their way to the EJC.
A juggling convention that I participated in many years ago.
Back then, in the Netherlands, and it reminds me that I've stored my stuff for far too long.
I could change that.
I guess I look very starved, as another Dutch couple asks me if they can bring me something from the supermarket.
Since I'm well taken care of, I only ask for two bottles of water.
And the couple from Italy invites me for marshmallows, which I graciously decline. I've had plenty of sweets; now it's time for cooking pasta.
That was already all the guests on the site, where a multitude of cats roam around.
Overall, it's an extraordinarily pleasant and cozy atmosphere, where I feel very comfortable.
Finally, as a nightcap, there's some homemade Slivovitz that the owner distributes to everyone present.
Then it’s urgent time to move into the tent; after all, I have ambitious plans to arrive in Tolmin early and see Jenni again.
It would be silly if I arrived after her.
Song of the day:
Russkaja - Energia
