No Way Back

Day #45

Sunday, June 14th

From Beyciler to Istanbul

Country: Turkey

Shortly after sunrise, I wake up, most likely disturbed by the barking of dogs in the distance.

Hopefully, they stay away; I can do without a pack of wild dogs.

Optimistically, I take my time in my hammock to work on the report from the day before yesterday before the day really begins.

The sun is shining and it’s starting to get warm.

This is to my liking.

And then the realization hits that the route ends abruptly.

Specifically, at the edge of a sand quarry.

But going back to the road is not an option, so I look for a way through some bush paths and animal trails.

Assuming that here, in any case, everything is soon to be sacrificed to the excavators.

And so I find my way back to the route, eventually ending up on the premises of an oversized sandbox.

In any case, I notice that work is also being done here on Sundays, with the only ones having an issue with my temporary presence being the two large guard dogs.

I move slowly, avoiding any frantic movements, across the premises and calmly speak to them.

It works, and I manage to get back onto the road without disturbance.

At least temporarily, I have asphalt under my wheels; from then on, it’s mainly gravel roads and sandy paths.

It’s a laborious progress, especially since you also have to brake going downhill.

At a water point, of which there are quite a few, I meet four Kurds. One of the two guys speaks good English and can translate, leading to a nice exchange.

Primarily, many questions about my tour.

The route then takes me through the next construction site, which means that the actual path has been partially excavated.

The motto is to keep moving forward, so I look for a way up a slope to continue my journey.

Or so, because the path has again abnormal ruts, and pushing is required.

I absolutely need to research the Czech route planner that the Austrian couple raved about. Even on the short stretch we rode together, their route stuck to the road while I was offered tiny paths, perhaps to save three meters. But that then cost double the time.

Overcoming all difficulties, I approach Istanbul.

Although I’m now riding on asphalt, the journey remains adventurous, as it feels like I’m on a highway.

It always gets particularly exciting at the two-lane exits.

So I have to go straight.

Where the cars are headed that come racing from behind, I have no idea.

Using turn signals seems just as frowned upon as braking, and so I’m always waiting for a gap and then quickly crossing over.

Continuing on the shoulder.

And the closer I get, the more crowded it becomes.

And the more it also starts to jam up.

So I weave my way through somehow; I have to keep moving.

Actually, I’m just adapting my driving style to that of the scooters.

The main street in Gladbach seems like a traffic-calmed zone compared to the traffic here.

Accelerating and braking is the motto, and with a lot of concentration, I manage to reach the Bosporus.

What a feeling.

First, I sit down, finish the last few bites of food, and absorb the impressions.

Having had worries about the check-in beforehand, I find that these are unfounded.

For the landlord, during the personal handover, it’s a matter of course that my bike comes into the apartment, and he helps me carry it.

First, I take advantage of the benefits of civilization again.

Running, warm water. A dream.

Then I set off into the city, first along the promenade.

Everything is so incredibly lively.

People are gathered everywhere.

A lot of grilling is happening, and even more fishing.

Happy to have actually made it this far, I set off in search of food.

At first, I’m a bit unsure if I’ve overdone it with my order.

No, everything disappears quickly.

A subsequent chai rounds off the meal.

Overwhelmed by the impressions of the day, I fall into a deep sleep back at the accommodation.

Song of the Day:

Siberian Meat Grinder - No Way Back