No Way Back
Day #45 Sunday, June 14th From Beyciler to Istanbul Country: Turkey Shortly after sunrise, I wake up, most likely disturbed by the barking of dogs in the m


Published: 16.06.2026





















Day #46
Monday, June 15
Day Off I
Istanbul
Country: Turkey
Breakfast is the most important meal of the day. Unfortunately, I'm missing the clown, but muesli will do.
Then, it becomes necessary to wash the first part of my clothes before I plan to cross over to Asia.
And then everything turns out differently, as life has its own plans.
While I am still cautious about not getting run over by a car in the heavy traffic, I scrape along a curb that suddenly appears and promptly land on the sidewalk.
Aside from some scrapes on my knee and elbow, I'm doing well.
Much worse is that the gearshift on my bike has been affected, and the derailleur is broken.
The chain stays on the small chainring.
Fuck!
First back to the accommodation, which is still quite close, to regroup.
I have my tools, but I quickly realize that my skills are inadequate for the problem.
Currently, phone calls can only be made via the internet, in this case, Wi-Fi, and I reach Dave.
Together, we look up a bike shop that I then head to.
On the way there, I also manage to knock off my side mirror.
It holds until a car runs over it.
Things are going really well today.
The mechanic in the shop speaks very good German and wants to repair my bike today, so I am lucky in my misfortune that I am in Istanbul.
He laughs off my request to lock up the bike since he will be parking it on the street.
Quote: This is Turkey, not Italy...
Nevertheless, I lock it up because I am compulsive, and leave him the key.
So instead of going to Asia, I walk through the old town and first arrive at the spice market.
The variety of smells is so diverse that probably only Patrick Süskind (The Perfume) could describe it accurately.
At a fruit vendor, I find Yesil Erik, the green sour fruit I was given the day before yesterday, and I get a bag of it.
As astonishing as the smells is the bustling atmosphere, and I let myself be carried through the alleys.
In the electronics district, I set out to find a new SD card, which turns out to be a challenge.
Either they don't have any, or there's no card payment.
I expected something different in an electronics store.
For a moment, I think that I am probably the only one failing at this task in Istanbul, but ultimately, there is a solution.
The price fits with my remaining cash.
By evening, my bicycle is repaired, and we chat a bit.
No wonder he speaks such good German; he studied in Issum at the Lower Rhine.
After a short test ride and a little adjustment, I am mobile again and decide on the spur of the moment to take the ferry to Asia.
Effectively, it is only a short distance further, but having made it to another continent under my own power is an intense feeling, so I enjoy every moment.
On my way to the targeted promenade, I pass a barber and get my head shaved again.
Across the street is a tobacco shop, and I can restock my supplies.
So things are still going well.
Then I happily ride along the sea and am part of the colorful hustle.
It feels nice to be able to ride my own bike.
Partly because it is mine, partly because it is functional again.
In the supermarket, I stock up on food, and with a view of the Sea of Marmara, the offshore islands, and the lights on the other side of the bay, I enjoy wraps at sunset.
Then it's time to return to the ferry so I can get back to the European side of the city.
But where I land, the service for today has stopped.
Even though I've read different times.
Seriously?
For a moment, I see myself booking a new accommodation.
A conversation with Jenni reveals that there are still ferries from other districts.
Very good, so I still have a chance to get over.
Have I mentioned that I don't like ferries because you're so out of control?
Since the docking point is on the other side of the Golden Horn, which is a body of water branching from the Bosphorus, I ride over the Galata Bridge, which was a fixed item on my agenda.
Around midnight, I finally arrive back at the accommodation and soon I am asleep, completely exhausted from the emotional chaos of the day.
Song of the Day:
Igorrr - Blastbeat Falafel
