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Day 9 Sansepolcro: through the Tuscan mountains

Published: 22.04.2024

On the way from Caprese Micheangelo to Sansepolcro, new impressions await me: I have now left the forests behind me and a vast Tuscan mountain landscape stretches out before me. The Monte Fungaia (with its 662 meters) appears mild with a gentle climb.

Agriculture and rolling mountains

Unlike a few days ago (when I was still hiking through almost untouched nature), here you can experience the agriculturally cultivated landscape. But it is also lonely here and many houses are falling into disrepair.

The unknown purpose of dog treats

The route goes past willow fences, olive groves, lavender fields and chestnut forests. Chickens, geese and dogs are part of the picture. Where are the residents? I have no idea, I certainly don't see a soul. Speaking of dogs: luckily they are mostly behind fences and therefore safe from me. Only two of them run towards me, barking in an unfriendly manner. My dog whistle proves to be ineffective. The dog treats that I have with me as a bribe for such cases make the two dogs retreat in complete fear. I am not disappointed, more surprised. Well, the manufacturers of the dog treats must have had something in mind.

First the rain shower

The next item on the agenda that they have planned for me is the heavy rain shower that lasts almost two hours. Get out the rain poncho and put it on? Works better than I feared. Walk with it? Works too. Look good with it? Not possible. Also not good in the rain: sit down, rest, drink.

Since I've already hiked for three hours without a break, the next two hours will be uncomfortable, as there won't be a single opportunity to take shelter or put down my backpack. And there it is again, the back pain.

Then a happy evening among pilgrims

Today I only look at the price when booking the room, given the circumstances. I have to share the bathroom with three men. You wouldn't believe what you can manage in the end.

I briefly greeted two of the bathers, also pilgrims. When I was on my way to see the city, our paths crossed and we decided to sit together in a restaurant: Alfreo! He gives pilgrims a discount, and also a cake and, to finish, a herbal liqueur distilled by monks (Alfeo is keen to stress this). To make things easier, Alfeo left the bottle at our table.

The rest of the conversation with Alfeo was as awkward as it was entertaining. You should never leave the house without your cell phone (like I did), otherwise you won't get a photo of such events.

I am somewhat familiar with the Italian mentality. My two Canadian companions could hardly calm down. I did not see the city again that evening. It was too late for that.

And if any of you come to Sansepolcro, go to Alfeo.

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