#02 Main Loops vs. Smoked Beer

We stayed one more day, despite (or because of) the deteriorating weather. We prefer to wander around here at the Main loop and visit a wine tasting or two.

Main loop is indeed the keyword. At no other point does the Main river make two bends in succession. This has become a trademark of the region and is obviously perfect for viticulture, placing us at the heart of Franconian wine production.

Actually, we should get the bikes out and take a tour through the region. However, after a glance out the window and at the weather app, we decided to skip that.

It's also possible on foot since the town is close and not very large. In the wine library of the wine cooperative, we learn more than just about the tastings; we also receive some information about the soil composition (shell limestone) and wine culture.

In the evening, we find a cozy spot at the wine library “Weingut Martin,” where the modern ambience is very pleasant.

Then, there's a photo on the wall that immediately reminds me of someone... What a resemblance 😉 (for insiders)

Tomorrow, the weather is expected to improve and we will continue to Bamberg.

This is a city with which we have had no prior contact at all. There is said to be a well-preserved building stock of historic structures, and half-timbering dominates among the old houses in the old town. The Regnitz and Main rivers meet here, and there is a beer culture (Bamberg Smoked Beer).

The GPS shows a distance of about 60 km on Federal Road 22 - if it weren't for road closures and detours. But so what, we have time and nobody is rushing us. On the way, we also pass places that we wouldn’t have seen otherwise. For example, the small town of Aschbach near the A 3 - home to the high-end motorhome manufacturers Concorde and Phoenix. One can see the vehicle halls and the lettering on the buildings from a distance. A relatively small village for the production of premium motor homes.

Upon arriving in Bamberg, we reach the motorhome site 'Heinrichsdamm' directly by the Main - Danube canal after some twists and turns, just a 20-minute walk from the old town. Not picturesque, but practical. When we arrive around 1:30 PM, we just manage to snag one of the last spots. For one night, the expectations are moderate; besides, proximity to the old town counts.

We are off to there right away. The sun is shining and it promises to be a really good beer garden day 😉.

The first hurdle is getting oriented in an unfamiliar city. You don’t want to walk around with your phone in your face all the time. Maybe we should get some tips from the Tourist Information. I read that there is something like a beer tour from brewery to brewery. One can surely admire the old buildings and sights along the way.

Unfortunately, the Tourist Information couldn't help us with this request. But the lady marked the location of the most important breweries on the overview map for orientation.

The closest one was Klosterbräu, and since we were also thirsty, we headed there.

It popped up, hidden in a side street - Klosterbräu. Outside, in the best sunny spot, there were several tables occupied by guests. Is there perhaps a courtyard with a beer garden? No, not a chance.

However, in the hallway, there's a small window to the taproom with a bell featuring a beer mug.

Combine - self-service for the tables outside. Indeed, the landlord soon came and took the order through the window - 1 x smoked beer and 1 x cellar beer.

I thought it could have been worse!

A smoky flavor was unmistakable, yet it was refreshing and malty. There was even a second one.

At our table, we had a nice conversation with a couple from Kaiserslautern, who had grown fond of Bamberg. We learned that Bamberg has a large university and is very popular as a student city. In the old town, on Upper Sand Street, it’s common to get beer from the brewery and walk out onto the street with your glass in hand. It sounds strange, but that's how it is. We tried it later.

Our sightseeing route then continued to Bamberg Cathedral along with its surrounding buildings. This Romanesque structure belongs to the German imperial cathedrals and hosts the only papal grave north of the Alps (if you ever encounter this question on Günter Jauch).

Below the cathedral hill, you reach Upper Sand Street with its brewing culture directly. And indeed, here they all stand on the street with their glasses in hand.

We do the same. Now that we know the deal with the window to the taproom.

As we stand on the street, I believe I understand the reason for this peculiarity. You see many more people and can wonderfully observe them as they weave through the street. Who are the tourists, the students, or the locals of Bamberg?

The students, at least, like to hang out in front of the faculty after their tiring lectures, enjoying the sun with a drink on the sidewalk.

Well, there are nicer places.

For example, a hearty dinner at the brewery 'Fässla' on the edge of the old town. With the Franconian specialty 'Schäuferla' and a beer goulash, the day concludes. Together with two large beers, the meal cost only 40,- €. Those are still reasonable prices.

The beer in the brewery is always only served in half-liter servings, which only costs 3.70 €. Paradise for these Bavarians.

But we’ve had enough of the big city for now, and despite the forecast for good weather, we’ll continue on.

Let's see where we end up.