The spectacular weekly market with two stalls

Today we have already traveled 25 kilometers to Valderrobres, our second stop. Actually, we had planned to spend two days in each village, but Icke had a few good reasons for an early change of location: weekly market! For Valderrobres, today was – I quote Icke – a “spectacular weekly market with 30, 40 stalls.” During our 90-minute search, we found two stalls, one with fruit and the other with roasted chicken. More on that tomorrow.

While Icke chatted with a couple of jewelry vendors for the next half hour, refreshing her Spanish, Emmi, Pipo, and I occupied a small table in front of a café that unfortunately was still closed and we reflected on yesterday’s day in Calaceite in our minds.

The parking spot was not really difficult to reach, but the many deep potholes on the 500-meter-long approach were quite a challenge. The parking area was not flat, but as the motorhome tilted towards the driver’s cabin – and thus the beds – it was not a big problem. If the head is lower than the feet, it would be more difficult.

Calaceite has less than 1000 inhabitants, but the well-preserved townhouses built with massive stones speak of an impressive past. The Assumption Church with its grand portal would surely be a flagship for any city. We are not so keen on hunting for sights; we are more interested in the atmosphere of a city and its people. Unlike the coast, tourists here are still a secondary matter. Restaurants and cafés only open their doors around 7 or 8 PM. When we found a tavern that opened earlier, the waitress immediately waved her hand: no dogs! About 15 older ladies sitting around a large table silently scrutinized us with critical, unfriendly faces. We were not sad that we had to leave again.

The people in Matarrana live in a region where hard work has been primarily in agriculture for many, many generations. In the past, places like Calaceite were the center of a small world where wealthy and influential people could also live well, as evidenced by the stately townhouses today. Life in the countryside demands much; here and there, efforts in the tourist sector can be seen, but it will probably take years or decades until something changes here. On the other hand, those who wander here can still experience the real Spain – and that is exactly what we want.