El Calafate

Even the strongest storm passes, and so we were able to set off in the sunshine the next day to the next classic stop in Patagonia, El Calafate. From here, you can visit the Perito Moreno Glacier in the Los Glaciares National Park.

Actually, the distance isn't far, but since we are crossing the national border into Argentina again, the journey takes relatively long. Unfortunately, Chile and Argentina - according to people from both sides - don't get along very well. This is probably also related to the infamous Falklands War (there were disputes over islands in the Beagle Channel, and the Chileans supported the English), and with football (that's where the fun really stops).

At the border crossing, hardly any cooperation occurs. The respective border posts are kilometers apart, and all bus travelers have to line up twice in long queues (by the way, it is freezing cold and windy)! Although this time we won't be scrutinized for smuggled food (the Argentines are more lenient), everything takes at least as long as last time. But it is nice in this bleak borderland in the middle of nowhere. The paved road ends at the barrier of the Argentinians; from then on, it continues for quite a while on a bumpy dirt road to our accommodation.

In El Calafate, it blooms just like everywhere else in Patagonia, especially the large lavender bushes are remarkable and emit a wonderful fragrance. Otherwise, the town is relatively and entirely dedicated to tourism surrounding the Perito Moreno. Although a few half-hearted attempts have been made to offer something to tourists in town, such as a small city park with randomly compiled historical information and exhibits. But actually, tourists are only supposed to quickly book a few expensive excursion packages to the glaciers and then disappear again. More cost-effective options like a regular bus shuttle to Perito Moreno have unfortunately been eliminated - a phenomenon we have observed several times in Patagonia. Why should they also let the tourists keep as much money as possible? Therefore, the only choices left are car, taxi, or a guided tour. The first attempts to book a tour to the glacier were thwarted by cancellations (damn intermediaries and boastful websites). Locally, we then found a suitable offer that was supposed to take us to the glacier, including a boat ride. After a generous amount was withdrawn from our credit card, it worked out, and we had a fantastic day at the glacier.

The storm and many rains of the last few days had a positive effect here - the ice was softened, and we were lucky to see the glacier calving many times: large or small ice chunks broke off from the front row and fell into Lago Argentino with a deafening noise, swirling the floating ice floes around. An impressive spectacle!

It's amazing how such a natural wonder can be so commercially exploited, yet on the other hand, we are also pleased as half-flatlanders to be so close to a glacier so easily. We found it very hard to part from the sight of the glacier.

In the following days, we continued to recover (Marike caught quite a stubborn Patagonian super cough and with her roaring is giving competition to the sea lions of Valdes) and took walks by Lago Argentino, for example, birdwatching in the nature reserve Laguna Nimes.

It was beautiful; let's continue!