From Glasgow to Northern Ireland

Day 7 (June 12): Glasgow - Ayr - Culzean Castle 100 km 700 hm / Σ 685 km / 6010 hm)

With freshly washed clothes in our bags, we start our last full day in Scotland - it goes by so quickly. We leave Glasgow heading south on a bike path through the suburbs. After 10 km, the development noticeably decreases, and we cycle up at a pleasant 2 to 5 % incline for 200 hm. While I'm struggling and sweating, Dominique says, 'This is nothing!' We arrive in East Ayrshire, a rural area with sheep and horse pastures, and after 30 km we reach Kilmarnock, an unattractive industrial town and former mining area. We learn that John Walker sold whisky here in a general store, now world-famous as Johnny Walker, the best-selling Scottish whisky worldwide. The route to the city center is a detour that costs us some time. Although the track is mostly flat, we progress slowly, partly due to the small villages with traffic lights. Then Dominique notices that the holder on the Ortlieb bag at the back has come loose. With one of the newly acquired straps (a very good idea), we can securely fasten the bag again. 10 km later, I experience the same problem, which can also be solved with a strap. Given the load on the bags, we should have checked and tightened the screws. Relief seems near when we pass a bike shop. However, the friendly owner finds no suitable screw, and even in the nearby hardware store, we can't find anything. We continue cycling along the less appealing coast, buying supplies for breakfast since we plan to camp tonight. In the last 20 km, Dominique speeds up to arrive at the campsite before 6 PM. We set up quickly and cycle another 5 km on a gravel road with puddles and mud to the next restaurant. What one does for a warm meal and a beer! At dinner, the view outside reveals bad news - it rains and doesn’t stop all night. But inside the tent, it remains dry and cozy, and despite the storm outside, we sleep like marmots.

Day 8 (June 13): Culzean Castle - Cairnryan - Ferry to Larn (Northern Ireland) - Ballygally (65 km 550 hm / Σ 750 km / 6560 hm)

In the morning, it is still raining, but we can take it easy since the ferry to Northern Ireland departs at 4 PM and it is only 55 km to Cairnryan. We can even pack the tent dry before departure. We chose this spot to visit the castle and garden, but given the exorbitant entrance fees and little remaining time, we forgo this luxury. Today's stage deviates from the EV1, which is noticeably felt on the heavily trafficked A77. Scottish drivers adhere to the safety distance rule for cyclists, even during heavy traffic, and only overtake with a safe distance. Just before the turn-off to the main road, we pass through Trumpland, Trump Turnbee, a generous facility by the coast with a luxury hotel and several golf courses. Until Girvan, car after car rushes past us, including many trucks. We are glad that there is a bike path ahead, but the wind blows so fiercely that we doubt we'll reach the ferry to Northern Ireland on time. We struggle against the wind, adding a few more elevation meters. At 3:15 PM, we arrive at the ferry terminal, but we can't buy tickets at the counter. As is often the case in such situations, online payment doesn’t work immediately, and then it turns out that in my haste I booked for tomorrow. However, the friendly staff makes every effort and rebooks us, so we arrive at the shuttle bus just in time after the luggage check. Yes, you read that right; we take a shuttle bus with many pedestrians onto the ferry. The bus stays on the ferry, and we place our bikes in the bus. The ride is calm and comfortable, giving us time for the blog and adjusting our plans. Northern Ireland welcomes us with sunshine, good roads, and little traffic. Soon, we are at our hotel directly on the Coast Road.

Conclusion Scotland

We experienced the Scots as extremely open, friendly, and humorous. Wherever we stopped, they inquired about our origin and well-being. If there was a problem to solve, they approached it purposefully and resolved it.

The weather is a dominant topic in Scotland. Anyone you meet will soon ask about the weather. 'How was your tour? That's just how the weather is here.' And when the sun shines, the Scots make their playful comments.

We had good luck, and if we hadn’t absolutely needed to camp, we would have traveled almost dry through Scotland. The wind had no effect on us until the last two days. And we saw the infamous midges once, so we know they exist.

The landscapes deeply impressed us, especially the Highlands with the rivers, valleys, mountains, and lochs. It wasn't as lonely as feared, and we could enjoy coffee, tea, and good cakes or scones (with cheese, very good!) in our breaks. We also always found lovely accommodations. We had to make sure to find an open restaurant later in the evening. We ate well everywhere. Fish and chips were always on the menu, but very good mussels or lamb dishes were also available. We did not try haggis. The popular drink Irn-Bru only once.

The cycling path network can be described without restrictions as exemplary. Although we only encountered a sign for the EV1 on the second to last stage, the signage for National Cycle Routes 1 and 7 left nothing to be desired. The paths were almost continuously well-paved on bike paths or lightly trafficked side streets. And the Scottish drivers contributed significantly to a pleasant ride with their considerate behavior (they only overtake when there is no oncoming traffic).

What other impressions remain? Little from the Lowlands, and the west coast has not left a lasting impression. Many dogs across the country, the shabby-looking villages and towns in the south, the numerous golf courses—there were certainly 30 we passed. 

A big thank you at this point for all your comments. It's nice to know that you are with us.