Over 10,000 Torii, I mean gates

The Fushimi Inari Taisha shrine is one of the most famous destinations in Kyoto. And that’s exactly what was on our agenda today – including a hike up the mountain behind it. Since this destination is so popular, we wanted to set out a bit earlier than usual. Unfortunately, we still weren't early enough and it was already extremely crowded. But what can you do – just push through and go.

The shrine is famous for its seemingly endless rows of bright red Torii gates. In total, there are over 10,000 Torii here, stretching like tunnels up the mountain.

Each one was donated by individuals or companies, often as a thank you or request for success – the names of the donors are directly inscribed on the gates.

The shrine is dedicated to the god Inari, who is associated with rice, prosperity, and business success. Hence the many fox statues, which are considered his messengers.

The path leads up Mount Inari, which, at about 233 meters high, is not a huge mountain, but the many steps and the constant ascent make it feel significant. We climbed quite a distance, passing by increasingly serene sections, small shrines, and viewpoints. The further you go, the thinner the crowds become – which makes the walk significantly more relaxing. The interplay of Torii, forest, and light alone makes the ascent absolutely worthwhile.

Back in Kyoto, we first took care of something very practical: tickets for our onward journey to the last stop of our vacation. One less item on the to-do list – this way at least we won't end up without a spot on the Shinkansen around New Year's.

Afterwards, we went for lunch – this time trying something new: a dish with Dashi. Dashi is a classic Japanese broth, usually made from Kombu (seaweed) and bonito flakes, forming the base for many soups and dishes. In this case, the broth was poured over rice, fish, and various vegetables, creating a hearty, filling soup.

Before continuing with culture, we first focused on coffee. The original plan was to take the bus for that. After a small mix-up – wrong bus, got off, realized it actually would have worked – we decided to simply walk. The coffee was then the well-deserved reward for the extra steps.

After coffee, we proceeded as planned to Nijo Castle, which conveniently was located almost right around the corner. However, we were met with a letdown: the Fushimi Inari Taisha shrine in the morning was likely to be one of the last cultural places we visited in Kyoto. Many attractions close around New Year's – and unfortunately, Nijo Castle was one of them. The Imperial Palace, which was also near our accommodation and we also wanted to see, will remain closed until January 4. Since we are leaving Kyoto on January 1, that also unfortunately falls through.

So: change of plans for today.

Since the sun was shining beautifully that day and it was just nice outside, we didn't want to sit indoors. And then the coffee enthusiast had a very good idea: make coffee and just sit in the sun with it. Said and done. So, we quickly stopped by the hotel, made some coffee, and headed to the park around the Imperial Palace, sat down, let the sun shine on our faces, and enjoyed the moment as long as the light was still there.

As the sun slowly disappeared and it got cooler, it was time for dinner. The choices were Gyoza or – again – Ramen. The decision fell on Ramen, simply because it was closer. And what can I say: these were by far the best ramen we had eaten so far. Whether the Gyoza would have been good, we do not know – but these Ramen were so good that there’s a very good chance we’ll eat there again while we’re in Kyoto.

The last agenda item of the day was rather organizational: in the hotel, we considered what we could do in the coming days – now that it’s clear many places will be closed around New Year's (quite obvious when you think about it).

But we already had some ideas, and we certainly won’t be bored.