Temple tour through Kyoto

Today was our first full day in Kyoto – and we made the most of it. We rode borrowed bicycles across the city to several temples and shrines.

We had planned a total of five stops for today. That may sound like a lot for one day, but it is surprisingly manageable in Kyoto. After all, temples and shrines are around every corner – and with a bicycle, you can move much more comfortably and flexibly than by bus or train – and of course, faster than on foot.

Our first stop was the Kitano Tenmangū Shrine. This Shinto shrine is dedicated to the scholar Sugawara no Michizane, who is revered today as the god of education. Accordingly, you can see many students and pupils praying for their exams here.

The shrine is also known for its plum trees, which bloom in spring – now in winter it was pleasantly quiet, although we did see some people diligently visiting temples in preparation for the New Year.

From there, we continued on foot to the Hirano Shrine, one of the oldest shrines in Kyoto. This one is also rather peaceful and not very touristy, which makes it very pleasant. Particularly, it is known for its cherry blossoms in spring, but even without blossoms, the place had a very relaxing atmosphere.

After that, we got back on our bikes and headed north – to perhaps the most famous temple in the city: Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion. Officially, the complex is called Rokuon-ji, of which Kinkaku-ji is the name of the central pavilion covered in gold leaf. This pavilion is picturesque as it reflects beautifully in the pond in front of it and is accordingly well visited. Despite the many people, the view is impressive – if you can catch a glimpse past the tourists.

Afterward, we continued eastward. On the way, we wanted to have lunch and then make a brief stop at Hōnen-in. However, that didn’t happen as we had to wait longer for a table at the restaurant we chose than planned. In the end, there was no time left for the Hōnen-in temple, which is considered relatively unknown and correspondingly quiet.

The wait was worth it: This time we actually had udon noodles – cooked traditionally and served in water, which you then add to a broth and complement with desired toppings such as sesame and various vegetables.

Next up was Ginkaku-ji, the Silver Pavilion. Unlike its “golden brother,” this one has never actually been adorned with silver. Instead, the focus here is on simple aesthetics and the famous sand gardens, which are considered an early example of the Zen style. Overall, the complex feels much calmer and more subdued – almost meditative – and I personally preferred it even to the Golden Pavilion. However, there were many tourists here as well, which took away some of the temple's tranquility and idyllic atmosphere.

With that, our temple tour for the day was complete. After so much culture, we went to a Sentō in the evening, a classic Japanese bathhouse. Unlike an onsen, a Sentō is not fed by natural hot springs, but is simply heated – the bathing experience is the same: separated by gender, thoroughly washing before bathing, and then just relaxing. After a long day on the bike, it was just what we needed.

An intense but beautiful first full day in Kyoto – and likely not the last filled with temples.