Tag 14: Levada do Caldeirão Verde & North Coast

July 29, 2025

Today's Highlights:

• PR9 Levada do Caldeirão Verde

Yes, how could it be any different... we are already well acquainted with the early bird.

At 9 AM, we arrive at the parking lot at the PR9 Levada do Caldeirão Verde in the Parque Florestal das Queimadas. The parking lot holds only 100 cars - and I would say, 30 are already there at 9 AM. So it's worth getting there early.

There is a public restroom and, as almost everywhere in Madeira, we encounter a turnstile that opens when you insert a 50 cent coin...

We all need to use the restroom, but we only have €1 coins or small change! The operators haven't really planned well for this. Since no one can exchange money, we squeeze ourselves past the turnstile. It's not that we don't want to pay, but the machine just doesn't take €1 coins.

The path passes a café and a small museum; the building features the original characteristics of the typical houses in Santana: the triangular shape and the traditional thatched roof, which we also see in the animal enclosures (ducks). The animals have a shelter shaped like a traditional triangular house. We walk past it into the forest, where the Levada trail begins.

We plan to walk the Levada to the waterfall, which corresponds to a distance of about 7 km - with the return trip, that makes 14 km. Well, we practiced yesterday.

We walk along a fairly wide path beside the Levada, flanked by huge trees and extensive roots.

Shortly thereafter, we find ourselves in the laurel forest, where plenty of water flows through this already historic Levada. It was built in the 18th century for the agricultural fields of the Faial municipality.

The path quickly narrows, and at times you have to scramble along just a few centimeters beside the Levada - fortunately, there are wire cable railings here. I don't like looking down in between.

We walk along the Levada, highlighted by steep slopes and mountains, passing through four tunnels carved into the rock that are sometimes so low that we can only crouch under them.

Adding to that are some ankle-deep puddles of mud and water, which I can hardly see with my flashlight and can only pass with great difficulty without getting wet feet. One has to be quite artistic, bending to get through the narrow tunnels without wet feet.

Shortly after the last tunnel, the path climbs on the left side up to the waterfall. We climb over rocks and boulders to the warning sign indicating that there is 'danger' and that the path is closed due to falling rocks...

Theoretically... practically, everyone just climbs over the rocks up to the waterfall. I find that much riskier than following the path to the waterfall behind the warning sign, which is what I do - and numerous tourists follow me.

At the waterfall, most tourists are sitting and having a picnic, and the 'begging birds' are also around here. Unfortunately for my son, they are not interested in his snacks today.

The water from the riverbed of the Ribeiro do Caldeirão Verde, located above the waterfall, flows vertically into the basin from about 100 meters high. However, today it is more of a 'trickle', as the stream above doesn't seem to carry much water.

When there is a lot of water involved, the river up top certainly lives up to its name Caldeirão do Inferno.

We sit at the waterfall for about 15 minutes - the water is icy cold, and no one dares to bathe before we start our return journey.

Especially in the tunnels, it gets really tricky with oncoming traffic, so we hope we are still early enough and that the big influx of visitors is not yet on their way.

Unfortunately, this doesn't quite work out, and on the last narrow stretch, tourist groups are constantly coming toward us. We often have to climb artistically onto the Levada and wait for all to pass.

I have also completely lost track of the extremely low tunnel and hit my head hard while trying to avoid a puddle. Oops...

Adding insult to injury, I then also overlook the last puddle of mud and find myself ankle-deep in the muck. Fantastic, now also wet and muddy feet (at least one of them). This dampens the joy of arriving at the car after over 14 km, but at least I don't have a bloody scrape on my head and spare shoes in the car 😅

We are hungry and drive to the sea in Porto da Cruz. It is overcast and quite windy; we don't have to sweat anymore. We find a spot with a sea view at Restaurante Praça do Engenho, where we eat fish, meat skewers, and veggies.

After lunch, we stop by the rum factory Companhia dos Engenhos do Norte. Entrance here is free, which we think is great. In the hall, a video with information about rum production is shown, and you can look at barrels in all varieties while learning from signs and panels.

In the shop next door, we hope for a rum tasting since we are interested in buying a bottle, but the ladies behind the counter make no effort to serve us. An American in front of us inquires and is rudely corrected. Nothing happens without prior payment here. Too bad, then not!

At the Miradouro da Beira da Quinta, we encounter the INSTA stars again. There are two glass platforms you can walk on and enjoy the view over the sea. Most tourists are only focused on the perfect selfie photo and pay no attention to the beautiful surroundings. It's a pity that it's really overcast now.

Before we head to the next viewpoint, we make a stop at the large supermarket Continente Modelo Santana, where we manage to get some souvenirs like Madeira wine, honey cake candies, and cookies.

Curiously, in the underground parking, you can do your laundry and dry it; several machines are available in the 'washing station'. Funny!

One of the most beautiful viewpoints concludes today's journey: the Miradouro da Beira da Quinta. It's a really great spot! From up here, it seems as if you are looking down at a miniature land.

This corner up here is only accessible via many winding roads and a very narrow tunnel, which greets us with oncoming traffic - so it means: waiting...

A few tunnels later towards Calheta, the sun is shining again under blue sky.... crazy!

We end the evening with card games. Today was exciting again 😃

For the statistics:

Walked: 21 km

Drove: 150 km

Accommodation: Villa Cró in Calheta

Weather: Sunshine and clouds, 20-27 degrees

• PR9 Levada do Caldeirão Verde

Distance: 7 km to the waterfall (14 km round trip)
Difficulty: moderate
Duration: 4:30 h
Start/End: Forest Park Queimadas / Caldeirão do Inferno
Highest/Lowest Point: 1,020 m / 872 m