14-01-20: Paola and the Right to Clean Air

We have arrived south of Santiago de Chile in the Andes. We will stay for two nights in a super nice private cabana. Small square houses on a funny landscaped property. The owner Paola has completely realized herself here. Picture frames, coffee cups and even chairs hang on the trees. Everything is uniquely decorated. The amount of ideas that have been realized here cannot actually come from just one person alone.

We are the only guests here again and therefore receive Paola's full attention. Paola is really nice. Her husband is also present, but more in the background. Paola has a creatively furnished breakfast room and the breakfast itself is excellent. Of course, Paola comes to our table for every additional cup of coffee, because then you can still exchange a few nice sentences. Many elements that have been processed in and around the house come from the houses destroyed in the 2010 earthquake. The earthquake destroyed many houses and the owners received compensation from the government. But with the money, new houses were often built and thus many destroyed houses line the streets of the small villages in the area.

It is hot in this region and not just recently. The rainfall this summer is about 15% of the normal value. And so it is dry everywhere around us.

We have a full day to explore the area and honestly, that's enough. On the way to our only destination on this day, the Alto Huemul nature reserve in the Andes, we are stopped by a demonstration on the only connection to our destination. Maybe two dozen people have occupied the unpaved road and set up a small but effective barricade. Nothing is moving, the road is closed. Drums are beaten on barrels and a large banner says (of course in Spanish): 'The right to clean air! We demand a paved road.' That can be understood. Every day, many vehicles rush past the houses and stir up so much dust that it constantly hangs in the air. The police are standing by but do not intervene. Then a vehicle with a negotiator from the municipality arrives and starts the conversations.

After an hour with no changes, we give up in frustration and drive back to the cabana. First, we take a siesta and then try again later. Two hours later, we set off again. This time we pass the spot where the demonstration was without any problems. With good spirits, we continue as described in the Andes Handbook. In the village of Sierras de Bellavista, we should keep to the east and then pass two gates one after the other. We actually reached the first gate. However, with a sign: Privado. Prohibido pasar! (Private. No entry!). The gate was open, but there was also a chain with a padlock. Since it would be disastrous to come back after 3 hours and stand in front of a locked gate, we decided to abandon this mission for good.

Further attempts to find alternative places were not successful. Nevertheless, it was a beautiful day and we got an impression of this dried out but still beautiful landscape.

We ended the day with a meal in a simple but typical restaurant for this region.