Tag 27 - Cacabelos nach La Portela de Valcarce

I have no expectations today and just let the day come to me. I set off at 8:30 a.m. After the first few kilometers along the country road, I get the impression that I have arrived in the wine-growing region, the "Bierzo".
When the first alternative route for today is presented, I decide to take it. Away from the road, over the vineyards. More strenuous, without question, but it gets more beautiful with every step. I hardly see any pilgrims on this route either, as it is longer and hillier and most people choose the shorter option, along the country road. The route continues on and on along the countless vineyards on dirt roads. Only a short walk through the small village of Valtuille de Arriba interrupts the landscape. It is only when the two paths merge again, just before Villafranca, that the number of pilgrims becomes noticeable. I arrive in Villafranca at around 10:30 a.m. It is a small town and one of the scheduled stops. I only have a quick drink and set off again relatively quickly. I feel really good today and my legs are in top shape so far and are not causing any problems at all.
At the end of the town, you have the choice between two options. The first, which is chosen by almost everyone, is 9km flat along the country road. The second is 9km long and 500m uphill, and then 2km downhill, 500m above sea level. So it's longer and more strenuous. I choose the second option over the mountains because I feel really fit and I love the mountains.
A small warning at this point for pilgrims who still come here: only choose the mountain route if you are really fit and without pain!!!
The best decision of the day, as I will later prove. The first few meters are very, very steep. Here I see a few desperate pilgrims looking on their cell phones or books for the right way or even asking me about it. Others are already coming towards me who think it is too steep. And it is only the beginning 😅After a few hundred meters, it is almost the end of meeting pilgrims for today. I only overtake a Brazilian couple relatively quickly. I am moving very quickly with my poles. I use them properly and push myself up/forward a lot using my arms. The ground is rock or scree almost the whole time and occasionally earth on the flatter parts. I am pretty high relatively quickly and have beautiful views of the city and the region. But it is also incredibly exhausting. The view becomes more and more impressive. I eat my bananas and energy bars on the flatter parts and drink a lot. Of course, it is very hot again today and the sun is blazing. After 2 1/2 hours of climbing, I find myself out of nowhere in the small mountain village of Pradela.
I eat and drink something in the only bar there and meet three other pilgrims. Two of them move on straight away and the third asks me if I am Luis. She is Christa from Wyoming and also knows Julie from Denmark, who I met a few days ago. We start chatting and continue the way down into the valley together. As it is very steep, it is better not to go alone. When we reach the valley, the two routes merge again. We have a quick drink and then continue along the road and the river. After a short while, Mikel (I originally wrote Marco) from New Zealand is behind us. I have met Mikel a few times now. The first time was on the train to Saint Jean. Despite being 68 years old, he moves very quickly.
My legs were getting tired and I decided to stay in the next town. Mikel joined me and we got two beds in the first hostel. Christa went on. She wanted to stay in a town 6km away.
After I had a shower, I wanted to wash. The hospitsleros here in the accommodation take care of this for 6€. 🙏
Today I got a little closer to O Cebreiro than I originally thought. So tomorrow I only have 6 flat kilometers and then 9 steep kilometers with 800 meters of elevation gain to O Cebreiro. There I will decide whether the short day of climbing is enough for me or whether I will continue.

Cost of the day:
Accommodation 12€ Breakfast 5€Food along the way 12€Dinner ??