Bolivia - Copacabana, Lake Titicaca, Isla del Sol

E phatlaladitšwe: 03.07.2018

Ingwadiše go Lengwalo la Ditaba

First stop in Bolivia: Copacabana, right on Lake Titicaca.

View of Copacabana and the impressive church.

The actual beach where all the boats leave for the island. — The actual beach where all boats depart for the island.

The left tip is the observation mountain Calvario.

On top of Calvario, you have a good view. But of course, nothing works without religious sites. — On top of Calvario, you have a good view. But of course, nothing works without religious machinations.

Is this already the salt desert? No. The view of the tip of the mainland.

Mushroom-cloud sunset at Isla del Sol. — Mushroom-cloud sunset over Isla del Sol.

A manageable place that mainly serves as a starting point for visiting the Isla del Sol and Isla de la Luna. The lake itself is located at an altitude of 3810m. After all, it is the highest navigable lake on earth. One side borders Peru, the other Bolivia. First little problem. My credit card, which has worked everywhere so far, is not accepted. But here, everything is cash only! I have a few dollars and euros to exchange, but that won't get me far. My backup card, which I have never used before, works without any problems. Good thing I thought ahead. So, let's get started with Bolivianos. The city itself doesn't offer much besides a nice church and a beautiful viewpoint hill. Full of tourist restaurants, souvenir shops, and bars. So, the next morning we head to the Sun Island. We go at snail's pace and always in the diesel fumes, and after 1.5 hours, we arrive. First, we have to climb stairs to gain some altitude. I notice for the first time that we are actually very high again. The sun is blazing, the sightseeing begins. Signs and maps seem overrated. The island can't be that big. Everyone else is running around in a similar clueless manner. Once you're at the top, a path will surely appear. And that's exactly what happened. Panoramic view of the mainland, the Moon Island, and the ruins that can be visited. In the afternoon, I reached the starting point again and after having lunch on the sun terrace, I found a nice accommodation. Tomorrow morning, we will go to the Moon Island, where there is even less going on. There are said to be 70 people living there. On the Sun Island, there are already quite a few more, but due to an ongoing dispute among the islanders, you can only visit the small southern part. The northern part is off-limits! And they take it seriously. I didn't try it, but apparently, they would aggressively reject anyone. It's about some fees that tourists are supposed to pay and their use. I haven't had it explained in more detail. But over a year ago, a South Korean apparently 'died' as a result, if I understood correctly. Dangerous half-knowledge! After an extremely peaceful night, I visit the Moon Island and drive back to Copacabana.

Overview. In principle, only the tip in the foreground of the picture could be visited.

The tip of the mainland should be my little bike tour. Next to it, Isla del Sol and the small Isla de la Luna. — Overview. In principle, only the tip in the foreground of the picture could be visited.

View of Isla del Sol.

View of the mainland. My bike tour should extend all the way to the top.

The terraces of Isla del Sol and the ruins.

View of Isla de la Luna. — View of Isla de la Luna and the high mountains in the background.

Hotel and restaurants built directly on the slope.

View of my accommodation. Woken up by the sun. — Hotel and restaurants built directly on the slope.

I had 2 days to take a closer look at the coastal profile of the mainland from a distance. That's what I wanted to do on the last day with the bike.

Here in detail. At the bottom, the start Copacabana, then at the peak Yamaypata, on the north side via Sampaya and Siripac back to Ruta 2 and back to Copacabana. — Here in detail. At the bottom, the start Copacabana, then the thick red line along to the north to the peak Yamaypata, and then on the other coast side via Sampaya and Siripac back to Ruta 2 and back to Copacabana. Ultimately, I came back to the city from the south!

I left Copacabana heading towards Yampupata on the northern tip. The plan was to find a cozy restaurant there to watch a round of 16 match and then return comfortably. And as it always goes with plans...

The first climb didn't take long to come. The altitude hit hard again. From then on, I only needed the smallest 3 gears. Because from now on, it went either uphill, steep uphill, very steep uphill, or downhill. Well, I managed to get to Yampupata quite well. The views were also wonderful. Unfortunately, there were no restaurants or anything else to buy there. Just like for the rest of the day. I was prepared, so I could bridge the first break. But during the day, it became increasingly difficult.

That's where it started. The first climb, still quite moderate.

View of the Floating Islands, where there is always fresh fish. Trucha! And always the same - only in dozens of different preparations. Similar to Forrest Gump, when Bubba explains the different shrimp preparations. — View of the Floating Islands, where there is always fresh fish. And always the same - Trucha! Numerous different preparations, similar to Forrest Gump when Bubba explains the different shrimp preparations.

Except when a car passes by, then it looks like this.

First pit stop. The sun is scorching, but it's still fresh.

Lunch break in Yampupata. Still in high spirits. In the background, Isla del Sol.

The path leads up there on the left side next to the peak.

And now back. The path leads along there on the left side next to the peak. Every time you think you've made it, the next short descent and the next long ascent come.

I thought I was at the end there. But the climb still continued for another 3 hours. — I thought I was at the end there. I didn't know that there would still be 3 hours of ascent ahead.

The return journey starts on the other side of the coast. After all, you don't want to ride the same route twice. At least I managed THAT! To the next town, Sampaya, I had to go even higher and then directly downhill again. The towns are usually right on the lake, at an altitude of 3810m. However, the passes in between are often at 4000m and higher. So, I've been shuttling back and forth the whole time. Doesn't sound that spectacular, but every meter of altitude hurts at this altitude. And after every half-hour ascent, it went downhill within 5 minutes. A real Sisyphean task. I don't understand how cyclists can enjoy it.

Then you always ask yourself. Should I really go down there on the left into the valley hoping to find some food? Or should I save myself the descent and the subsequent ascent and just continue?

Arrived down in Sampaya. Nice village. Nothing to eat. Managed to scrounge a mandarin.

Just eat grass and look clueless. It could be that easy.

Then came the grand finale. A nice woman in Siripaca told me I just had to go up to the antenna and then it's all downhill from there. In principle, she was right. But the damn antenna was actually another 600m higher! And I was already completely exhausted. Unaware, I cheerfully took on the final ascent. After 10 minutes, I had to get off. Too steep and even less strength than before. Luckily, I had received 2 mandarins in the village. Together with the last chocolate, it was my last meal.

People in the countryside were all very nice - as always! Two people, three opinions, and unfortunately, I chose the wrong one. Maybe for the Bolivians, it was just a little ascent. Anyway, I pushed my bike uphill for 2 hours. Not a single car, not a single person crossed my path. There were a few sheep and llamas by the roadside. Nothing else. Just me and the mountain. And above all, the end - the antenna - was never in sight. I didn't know how much longer it would take. Occasionally, I calculated how much daylight I had left until it gets really cold and dark. But I wouldn't have lasted that long anyway. My personal death road is coming to an end. Suddenly, the antenna is actually within sight but still far away. And when I reach the top, I even meet two Czech hikers who are doing my tour in 6 days. From there it was truly all downhill and I had half an hour of downhill ride into the sunset and arrived in the city from a completely different side.

Before the last ascent. Approximately 30 minutes between this and the next picture!

Wow, I really didn't feel like it anymore. And it continued like this for another 1.5 hours!

Finally, the downhill! You can already see the asphalt road crossing down there. That was the deluxe version. Finally, you could let it run without constantly worrying about flying off at the next bump.

The goal lies far back there. Half an hour of downhill, please.

In retrospect, of course, it was a great tour. But I wouldn't do it like that again. Maybe rely on one of the other two opinions. Maps and information are simply scarce. Although I wanted to confront the guy from the tourist information again about the tip with the 'bike tour'. Anyway, I didn't notice anything about the soccer game. As a consolation, I had a family pizza and the certainty that I was in places where not many tourists had ended up before. I got the pizza in a family restaurant (from a family, not for families) where I had already been twice. This time I had to pay for the pizza in advance. Then the boy went to buy cheese and then there was a pizza, which the kid even made himself.

The next morning, we continued to La Paz! For that, we had to cross part of the lake again. We were dropped off and the bus got its own boat.