Arriving at Bottle Beach, Koh Pha-Ngan

I'm in need of a real break. Hideaway on a beautiful, preferably secluded beach. The more authentic, the better. I remember doing this in Malaysia in 2013 and in Sri Lanka in 2014 and it was really good for me.

Koh Pha-Ngan is actually famous for its full moon parties. During the full moon, partygoers, young and thirsty for alcohol, flock to Hat Rin to dance, smoke, drink, and experience everything else that comes naturally from the planned intoxication. Apart from the full moon and this beach, Koh Pha-Ngan is considered one of the most beautiful islands in Thailand. I have thoroughly researched and read that the beaches in the northeast are supposed to be the least touristy, and in particular, Hat Khuat (Haad Khuad), also known as Bottle Beach, is recommended for people seeking tranquility. That sounds perfect to me.

Transferring with the Lomprayah speed catamaran is pleasantly well organized. The ferry agency has everything under control. I arrive at the pier half an hour earlier as requested and I actually have to check in with my passport, a bit like a flight. My trolley, my daypack backpack, and I are given a color-coded destination sticker, so that every employee can immediately see which island I want to go to. Then I can book my onward transport and receive another destination sticker. The luggage is loaded according to the destination region and the catamaran departs on time. Half an hour later, unfortunately, we have already arrived and I disembark. At the pier, employees are already waiting to guide me to the right taxi minibus. The luggage and I are loaded into it, the destinations of all passengers are queried and put in a sensible order, and off we go. I am the last one and unlike the others, I am not dropped off at the booked resort, but at the northernmost beach in Chaloklum. This is because there is no asphalted road leading to Bottle Beach and it can only be reached by longtail boat. The crossing costs 150 Baht and it departs when the boat is full. But since there is no one else here who wants to go to Bottle Beach, I have to wait. The pirate-like boatman waves me into a small kitchen. The Thai women smile at me friendly and continue with their work. That's what I love about Thailand. The people are incredibly friendly and reserved. Nobody pressures me or even asks if I want to eat something. I am simply welcome, even if I sit there for hours without consuming anything. I use the time to edit photos on my iPad. It's twice as much fun with a cold Diet Coke, and before I know it, two hours have passed. That's how it is when backpacking. Nothing is fast, you always have to be prepared for the unexpected and just let go. I enjoy it a lot. It's a wonderful contrast to my otherwise very scheduled and efficiently organized everyday life. The sky is getting cloudy and my pirate boatman indicates that we should leave now if we want to arrive dry with our luggage. I agree, even if that means I have to pay for the entire ride alone. He negotiates down from 600 Baht to 500. Barefoot, I wade through the water behind him and then hoist myself into the boat using a small ladder.

We zoom off at full speed, the boat hops on the waves and water splashes in all directions. I'm as excited as a child. I love these little adventures. My pirate is happy that I am so happy.

Indeed, Bottle Beach looks wonderfully deserted. Not a single tourist can be seen. My heart leaps for joy. This is exactly what I was looking for. Yippee!

When landing, I have a great Robinson Crusoe feeling. Look:

https://splice.gopro.com/v?id=MPKaZz