Day 3
We are continuing our journey from Negombo to Kandy. We have chosen the train as our mode of transport. Not only is it the cheapest option, but it's also an adventurous way to travel. Kandy is a large city in central Sri Lanka, situated on a plateau surrounded by mountains with tea plantations and diverse rainforests.
We booked a private driver through Uber, who was supposed to take us from our hotel in Negombo to the Gampaha train station. He did that, but he wanted more money than originally agreed upon via Uber. We prefer using Uber to avoid being charged tourist prices and to spare ourselves from bargaining. Our dear driver seemed to have misunderstood this principle and was not satisfied with the price. Of course, he brought up the topic during the ride. Nevertheless, we stood our ground and were not influenced. That was really not the polite way to handle it.
We collected our ticket at the station and opted for second class. While we were standing in line, I noticed a family staring at us. I turned my gaze towards them, and we smiled at each other. The daughter quietly and shyly said, 'good morning.' I replied, 'Āyubōvan,' folded my hands in front of my chest, and nodded my head.
When it comes to the train, one can choose between first class (air-conditioned, two-seater), second class (open window, fan, two-seater), and third class (open window, four-seater). Additionally, one can sometimes reserve seats in first and second class.
We sat at the platform, waiting for our train. At the Gampaha station, we were the only tourists and the only white faces around. I can only imagine how an animal feels in a zoo. We were often looked at, but also smiled at and approached. The train arrived on time, and fortunately, we managed to find a seat. During the peak season (starting December), trains and buses are said to be very crowded. For now, we can't complain about that at all. The window was open, the sun was shining through, and the ride was quite bumpy! The doors remained open during the journey. Of course, we couldn't help but take a look out the open door while driving. The train ride in Sri Lanka is anything but boring, as you are accompanied by impressive nature throughout the journey. However, many moments were quite impactful for me. I was deeply shocked by how some people live here and by the level of poverty that exists.
Around noon, after about 3 hours of travel, we arrived in Kandy. Once we left the station, the peace and quiet were gone. A tuk-tuk driver here, another there, a good price here, a day tour of Kandy there. It can definitely be quite annoying. We decided to walk to our accommodation, which was half an hour away... And then, yet again, a tuk-tuk driver followed us, dammit. Ultimately, it turned into a good situation, and we decided to go with the driver named Namal. It turned out that Namal is really a very genuine person who wants to provide an unforgettable trip. This feeling was confirmed the next day. We had agreed the day before that we would meet the next morning to explore Kandy together.
By now, we had arrived on November 5th, and you know what that means. It's my birthday! After a delicious breakfast at our accommodation, which by the way, was not that amazing (traditional Kandyan House), Namal picked us up. He showed us beautiful places, repeatedly brought us fresh fruits from street vendors, and ensured we were well entertained. He took us to a tea factory where we received a tour and got to see how tea is processed. Afterward, we had a tasting and were allowed to buy something in the shop if we wished. Sri Lanka grows, processes, and exports a lot of tea, primarily black tea, green tea, and rooibos. Compared to Bali, this was truly a serious affair. We did many more things with him. Then came the birthday highlight for me. Namal booked us an Ayurvedic full-body massage, which was very fitting since it was raining at that time. What a birthday, right? In the end, we watched a traditional dance show in Kandy and had dinner at a local restaurant recommended by Namal.
What a day!
After a nightcap at a bar, cheers to me, we returned to the hotel. There, our lovely, musty room awaited us. And as if the mustiness wasn’t enough, it had the most uncomfortable bed in the world. I swear, I sleep better on my sleeping mat. Well, I have to admit that we both actually slept very well. David's back pain was even less. Maybe he should just get a board as a bed for home too. 😀