Ebimisami: 13.05.2023
An essential part of our trips to France are now the flea markets.
There are the 'brocantes', where usually professional dealers sell more or less genuine antiques at mostly inflated prices, mostly to tourists. If you know your way around, it can be worth it, but our dreams are not offered here and certainly not in our price range.
Then we have the 'marchés aux puces'. These are very comparable to German flea markets and often take place in supermarket car parks, sports or festival grounds. Private sellers mix with professional traders and the stand prices are moderate at 1-2 euros per meter and ridiculous compared to German events.
And there are the 'vide greniers'. Typically, entire roads in small towns or villages are blocked off, as the French name suggests, and residents empty their attics, trying to get rid of stuff as much as possible. The most important thing is not to have to carry anything back into the cellar or attic. Treasures are sometimes sold for 10, 20 or 50 cents.
After the Mistral blew the fleas away in the south, we want to use the Easter weekend for some bargain hunting on our way back.
On Saturday morning, Lyon is on the program.
'Les puces du Canal' is the second largest flea market in France. In old warehouses on the Rhone Canal, you can find all kinds of old stuff in 200 'boutiques'. There is also additional space for up to 400 stalls outside, and of course, the typical French bars are not missing for refreshment.
They advertise antiques, design, and art as a paradise for bargain hunters.
Of course, during the preparation, we already know that this will not be our thing, but we are curious, it's on the way, so we find a place to sleep nearby to be able to be at the place of our wishes in the morning.
There are not so many standing places on the field around the big city of Lyon, and one of the few we have chosen for the night is already occupied when we arrive late in the evening. Strange, the white transporter was already visible in the same position on the satellite image. Love-mobile or harvest worker's accommodation?
But we have to find another place.
After the long drive from the warm Alpilles, our eyes slowly close, so we choose the easiest solution: the Parking de la gare in Miribel is not known for its pronounced silence, trucks and high-speed trains rush past us on both sides. But there is enough space for the château, and it is only 14km to the 'puces du canal', even if we have to take the one-way street in the wrong direction for the exit in the early morning hours.
As expected, this flea market turns out to be more of a tourist trap. Especially Brits, Swiss, Belgians, and Germans pay the 4€ parking fee and are not scared off by the fantasy prices. Credit card payment is possible at any time and anywhere. It's a pity that many of the boutiques are not open on Saturday because the journey is definitely worth it just for the amazement. There is so much to admire: fine porcelain, old oil paintings, flashy Louis XIV furniture, colored lampshades, worn-out armchairs, colorful glasses, imposing stag heads, huge farmhouse tables, rickety Vespas - oh, I can't list everything. The shops in the halls are lovingly furnished like cozy living rooms or filled to the ceiling with old stuff.
There is so much to see that we completely forget to take photos. Just look at the pictures online or stop by if you're nearby.
After two hours of amazement, we sit down exhausted in the next bar to enjoy a well-deserved café au lait. It seems that the traders who had just closed their stalls have gathered here. With a glass of pastis, they gamble with playing cards and colorful plastic chips for some business. Judging by their serious faces, considerable sums are at stake, which will probably be exchanged for hard francs later in front of the door.
However, we have to continue north. Tomorrow a 'puce' is waiting for us in Bresse.
Marboz is only 100km away from Lyon and has a sandy festival area where up to 300 flea market stands can be set up on Easter Sunday morning.
Today we decide to use the parking lot behind the local cemetery as our location for the night. The chances are good that we will find some peace and quiet and can simply leave our long vehicle there in the morning for the market.
From up here, we look down on the senior residence, although the late-night noises suggest more children's voices. Maybe there's a multi-generational party going on?
At exactly 11:00 pm, the screaming comes to an end, and deep bass beats set in. Boom-boom-boom... Slowly we realize that right next to the nursing home is la salle de fête, and now the disco is in full swing.
Well, this is not the first time on this tour: earplugs in, and good night!
At 5:00 am, the first traders start unloading their goods on the dusty village square at the foot of the nursing home. Cars buzz, doors slam, table legs clink, crates rattle, pavilions fall apart, people greet each other. Hopefully, the elderly gentlemen were all able to turn off their hearing aids...
We are on the site at 8:00 am, and there is already a lively hustle and bustle. A colorful mix of professionals and private individuals has gathered here, and as always, there are things that the world no longer needs. And you won't believe it: Zappa actually leaves a 6x9 Thirst-Profi enlarger with all the accessories for a small amount of money. I was already afraid that it would end up in my bed. Nevertheless, he carries a lot of stuff, and in the end, after half an hour of consideration, the two-burner spirit stove is included in the collection of wonderful cooking devices. But only because I think the green is soooo beautiful.
But now we have to continue north. Tomorrow, there is a 'vide grenier' waiting for us in Alsace.
These events have become cult status for both of us. No trip without a village flea market in Alsace! Entire villages are completely closed to traffic, long streets are stuffed with treasures, and the residents suspend their village life for this one Sunday in a year and move outside.
The good experiences from Bresse also lure us to Epfig and the cemetery. But here we have to realize in the late evening that the residents have already moved their vehicles out of the restricted area and parked them in this parking lot.
Once again, a new solution is needed at bedtime!
We drive a few rounds in the local roundabout.
There are already two campers parked crooked and top-heavy in front of the SuperU parking lot, but that's not an option for us, we can't sleep well like that.
Not far away, there are the glass recycling containers with plenty of relatively straight space in front of them. That will work until tomorrow morning, after all, nobody will think of disposing of their bottles on the night before Easter Monday.
Think again! At 5:00 am, Zappa is woken up by the typical sound of breaking glass! Luckily, the containers are filled to the top due to the general strike, so it doesn't make such a loud noise. I don't hear anything anyway...
At 7:00 am, the alarm clock rings, and while drinking coffee, we can observe the crowds of pilgrims who park all around us in the whole village in a zigzag without any rules. Armed with huge backpacks, colorful shopping bags, sturdy suitcases, baskets, and bags of all kinds, the people of Alsace hurry into the town in the early morning hours in search of great fortune!
This makes our croissant stick in our throats. But now quickly, otherwise, all the treasures will be snatched away. At 8:00 am, the alley is already completely blocked, it's crowded and pushing, it's hardly possible to make progress to the stalls. German safety thinking does not exist in Alsace. Fortunately, the master at my side soon forgets the regulations of fire access roads and escape routes, which anyway do not fall under his jurisdiction, and dedicates himself entirely to second-hand consumption.
Loaded down, we return to the little castle after hours.
Here is the result of a successful Easter weekend:
a tea pot, two antique planes that would make any carpenter turn green with envy, three huge old brass water taps, a large laboratory clock, a gigantic cast-iron wok stove, guaranteed to weigh 20kg, a wonderful sun mirror, three old cameras, a French corkscrew, suitable for any toolbox, an enamel pendant lamp with a patina of Bresse chicken droppings, a hurricane lamp, a colorful little bag, a really cool wire bending pliers, and the obligatory lamp. Zappa's absolute highlight is the historic photo lab lamp with a candle and a red glass plate.
But now we have to continue north. There is work waiting for us tomorrow. The way is long, and the caravan prevents a wild car ride. But Alsace is not out of the world, and the next holidays will definitely come.