From Tsitsikamma to Plettenberg Bay

South Africa/ Day 10 (Wed) - 31st August 2016

What a day! Incredible and unexpected temperature fluctuations have challenged us today. But let's start from the beginning.

As usual, we got up very early and had breakfast shortly after 7. Then we left Tsitsikamma Village towards Plettenberg Bay. We drove along the N2 in bright sunshine, admired the forests, canyons, and the mountains and valleys covered in clouds. After a few kilometers, we followed a tip from our travel guide and left the highway towards the sea. The mountain pass to Nature's Valley Village, a holiday resort in the adjoining nature park of Tsitsikamma, offered new natural beauties and ended at a river mouth into the Indian Ocean. Wow, that was impressive! There was only one angler on the beautiful natural beach besides us, a few students were standing at the edge of the forest and learning about nature, the sun was shining - simply fantastic!

Before I forget: At the lonely beach in Nature's Valley, I noticed, as often before in scenic places, a bench. Here, people dedicate beautiful benches to their deceased and then attach a sign with the name, date of birth and death of the deceased, and a few friendly words. I think it's a good idea!

After a walk on the beach, we stopped at a farm shop on the way back. It was around half past 10 and the sun was already extremely hot. After all, our weather apps had announced 33 degrees.

Farm shops offer fresh food for purchase and often also operate a restaurant. We ordered coffee and fresh carrot cake, with a view of the herds of cattle, calves, chickens, goats, and cats.

Nevertheless, we reached our next accommodation, the Bosavern Guesthouse, around 10 o'clock. The approach to the snow-white 4-star guesthouse (a little note: it is 17 years old and was the first commercial guesthouse in Plettenberg) is a splendor. Amidst many villas on a hill and very well signposted, one enters lively and habitable architecture. The reception by the hostess, Veronica, the introduction of the staff, the impression of the hall with a fireplace and a sensational view of Plettenberg Bay - thanks to a huge panoramic front - is a revelation with the arriving/well-being/reflection. One wants to quickly put on swim trunks, jump into the pool, and lie on the panoramic terrace.

Since we were almost the only guests, we were allowed to choose a room and decided on the one overlooking the pool terrace! After inspecting the rooms, the housekeeper brought us freshly prepared coffee. Our room is very bright and tastefully furnished, a fresh flower was on the desk, the bathroom is very modern, equipped with a bathtub and shower, candles are ready. Simply great.

All rooms have direct access to the garden, pool, and terrace thanks to a panoramic sliding door. There are sun loungers and chairs in front of the room, pillows, blankets, and bathrobes were ready.

Then we headed to the town. The sun was still shining, but it was slightly cooler due to the proximity to the sea, so we had packed our down vests as a precaution. Since we didn't know exactly where to go despite the city map, we asked a young black woman for directions. She immediately walked with us, saying that she was from Malawi, worked as a cleaner here, had children and a husband, and that's why she stayed in South Africa.

Around 12 o'clock, JC and I walked through the sunny city of Plett. There is a main street with an African market, where JC bought a bracelet as a souvenir; a shopping center, which we didn't want to visit in such nice weather; some small shops (I bought a scarf as a souvenir - luckily!); and restaurants. In a juice shop, we bought a smoothie with pineapple, apple, mint, and ginger. It actually tasted good. There was a vegan store right next door. ("Until we found this store, I thought South Africans were so beautifully normal!", JC said.)

We continued walking towards Center Beach and were just about to have a coffee on the beach when we saw a group of tourists in life jackets heading towards a whale-watching boat. Since bad weather was forecasted for the next day, I asked the boat captain if there was still space and we were allowed to join. JC, who tends to get seasick, wasn't worried considering the weather and the calm sea. Before we could start, JC was briefly used because of his height and weight. He positioned himself on the clutch of the trailer on which the boat was standing, so that the tractor, which was supposed to push the boat into the sea, could be attached to it. Then JC, ready for any adventure, boarded the motorboat. We sailed towards the open sea, past the Robberg peninsula, which is full of seals.

As soon as we had rounded it, the weather changed, it became cold, the waves got higher, and the water splashed into the boat.

But the journey had just begun and would last almost 3 hours!

The boat raced over the waves or stopped and rocked even more. We quickly got quite wet and were freezing like crazy. The guides were looking for whales because the tour was supposed to cost 460 R. without whales and 700 R. with whales per person. And we encountered whales. Due to the high waves and the layer of gray clouds, we couldn't see them very well, but their backs and water spouts appeared next to the boat from time to time. Unfortunately, it was impossible to take pictures. We had to hold on to the boat with both hands, otherwise, we would have fallen over.

JC remained seated the whole time and stared ahead. He was pale under his tan, I couldn't talk to him, and I felt so sorry for him. He only came on the boat out of love for me and now he had to suffer so much. On the way back, the boat passed by Robberg again at a very close distance. The seals could even be smelled on the boat from a few meters away, and they smelled beastly, which prompted JC to grab a plastic bag from his backpack (but fortunately he didn't need it).

There was also a sea elephant lying on the rock, which excited the guides. We saw a huge pale zeppelin lying motionless among the wriggling black seals and speculated whether the animal had been placed there just for the tourists or if it was an inflated seal. It didn't move, it lay there like a mountain.

In the end, we were so frozen that we couldn't even enjoy the two dolphins swimming around our boat. When we finally had solid ground under our feet again and JC could smile again for the first time in three hours, we had a hot tea at the beach restaurant. JC ordered rum with it, much to the surprise of the South African waiters. That's why JC let one of them taste his tea with sugar and rum and received approving nods.

We took a taxi back to the hotel. We had to show the driver the way, then he demanded more money than the hotel owner had told us before. However, he let us negotiate and agreed without contradiction.

In the hotel, Veronica had put a heater in our room and we took a hot bath.

Afterwards, we drove to the only South African restaurant in town recommended by Veronica. Usually, you can find Italian, Asian, and other cuisines here, but hardly anything typical of the country. It's similar in Germany. NGUNI is located in a dark side street in the city center. Behind a small barred door stood a black woman whom we asked from the car if we could park safely considering the three black figures on the opposite parking lot. She said that the guys here would guard everything and nothing had ever happened, so everything was safe!

The restaurant was small and tastefully decorated. They served bread from a flowerpot, I had Boboti, JC had Lammkaroo, and for dessert, we had a South African pudding, something similar to plum pudding. Everything was very delicious, and we were once again totally thrilled.

See you soon...
Tatjana

By the way, I also write on: https://www.facebook.com/rucksackfrei/