Pubblicato: 09.05.2023
We leave Saint Malo and have a 4-hour ride ahead of us along the coastal and secondary roads to the red granite coast. First, we cross a dam over the mouth of the river 'La Rance', which widens and branches out into the sea here. And because there is a huge tidal range here, a tidal power station has been built into the dam to generate electricity. This is one of the very few tidal power plants worldwide. The prerequisite is a steady and consistent rise and fall of the water on a scale that makes the investment worthwhile. And here, the sea has a range of about 14 meters per tide. That's definitely worth it.
The journey stretches through hilly and wooded regions, and the views of the coast are rather rare. And then we keep coming across roadblocks and have to turn around because a construction site prevents us from continuing. That's annoying and takes a toll on the mood.
Our desire for a peaceful campsite with a view and leisure to do nothing should be fulfilled in the town of Perros-Guirec at the 5-star campsite 'Le Ranolien'. We also reach it in the afternoon and are already skeptical upon arrival. What's going on here? Parking lot full, people everywhere, parking attendant asking for a reservation - we don't have one -, children screaming and lots of hustle and bustle. At the reception, the explanation follows that Monday is a public holiday in France and many French people are taking advantage of the long weekend.
But not everyone on this campsite! Yes, exactly here.
The place is full and the last pitch offered to us is unacceptable. We just want to get away from here.
10 km further, there is the 'Camping du Port Landrellec', which is also listed with ACSII. The approach already takes us off the main road through narrow streets, and there is only sparse signage to the campsite, and we are not sure if we are still on the right track. But the navigation system doesn't waver and leads us to the gate at the end of the world. The campsite is located directly on the waterfront, only there is currently no water.
The ladies at the reception are very friendly and strive to find a pitch in the front row right on the water.
Great - that's exactly how it should be.
After setting up and taking out the camping chairs, we are sure that this is exactly how it should be. We will stay here for the next few days and relax.
The campsite is very well maintained and consists of a lot of mobile homes and pitches along the waterfront. The campsite is not even full, making it a dream for us.
There is even a restaurant with a small menu.
It gives us a little thought that this must be the small Gallic village. Unyielding against all sieges, defiant against wind and weather, majestic on the small dune and friendly to all people.
And for all those interested - there are also large stones and menhirs here:
Along the entire coastline of this part of Brittany, the GR 34 hiking trail (sentier des douaniers - the customs officers' path) runs. It meanders directly along the waterfront and also passes through the campsite. As a result, groups of hikers with backpacks pass by our motorhome during the day and follow the trail.
We settle in and brave the weather. It doesn't seem to be treating us well. Barely a day goes by without clouds gathering and rain falling. As long as it happens at night, it doesn't matter to us. But it starts earlier...
On Sunday, however, we manage to ride along the granite coast with our bikes and admire the enormous rocks. They are so huge that they couldn't have been moved by an Obelix. While looking at the stones, we try to come up with a comparison for their formation. Look, that one looks like stacked pancakes
And as we can read later, they actually all have such names.
The Sunday hustle and bustle varies. But the parking lots at the hotspots are already full, and the hiking trails are crowded. Sunday is family day here, and the weather is cooperating.
In the afternoon on the way back, we end up in the village of Plumanac'h, which was once awarded the title of most beautiful village in France. The restaurants here are also full, and photos are being taken on the beach. From here, you can see a rock with a castle-like property on it - the chateau de costaérès, which is located on an island that can only be reached on foot during low tide.
Later we read about this place that it is privately owned by a German actor, bought by Didi Hallervorden in 1988.
Very impressed, we treat ourselves to two beers at a beachside restaurant and just smile at the price of €30.
Back at the campsite, I put the bikes in the garage - rain is forecasted again for the night. And it does come.
The next morning, our pitch is flooded, and we seriously consider whether to stay or leave.
We decide to stay and have a laundry day. The wind quickly dries the laundry, and we use the time for a walk on the beach and on the GR 34. It is low tide, and you can find all sorts of things on the seabed.
We decide to stay until Wednesday - despite the unsettled weather. It's not any better elsewhere. So we enjoy the town, which is a dream in the sunshine.