Bizarre landscapes in the north of Argentina

Car rental Salta-Cachi-Cafayate-Salta

After about 20 hours on the bus heading north, we arrived in Salta. A place that may not be known to many people. The sixth largest city in Argentina is located in the north, at the foothills of the Andes, not far from the border with Chile and Bolivia.

People come here mainly for the landscapes. After our first day in the city, where we once again took part in a - or rather two - Free Walking Tours and visited some great buildings, we left the city behind to explore the area around Salta. First, we spent an afternoon biking around near the foothills of the Andes.

Then we teamed up with Manuela and Dani - Swiss travelers on a longer journey. For three days, we shared the cost of a rental car and on the first day, we drove together from Salta to Cachi in the Calchaqui Valley. On the way, we reached quite a high altitude. The highest point was at about 3,500 meters above sea level. Chewing coca leaves helps to prevent altitude sickness. We had no problems at all and were able to enjoy the drive. We crossed the Los Cardones National Park, where thousands of small and large (up to 10 meters) cacti grow. The landscape is very impressive and around every corner, you discover a new great photo motif. In the evening, we arrived in the small and charming town of Cachi at an altitude of 2,500 meters, where we rented a cabin. During dinner, we tasted a wine that is grown here at high altitude - Miraluna Malbec: highly recommended.

On the second day, we continued from Cachi to Cafayate. Along the way, we stopped at various viewpoints, a remarkable cemetery, and crossed the Quebrada de las Flechas. The landscapes are bizarre and constantly changing. Sometimes orange sandstone formations, then again gray wastelands, green valleys, or cactus-covered plains. Much reminds us of northern Australia - the drive is pure sightseeing and you can't get enough of all the little natural wonders that have been created here over millennia. We spent the second night in Cafayate at a hostel. But sleeping without air conditioning is not so cool due to the high temperatures here - it can reach up to 37.5°C during the day.

Day three means the return journey to Salta and the crossing of the Quebrada de las Conchas. The rock formations that line the road here are impressive and spectacular. Some even have their own names, so there are marked stops every few kilometers. From the toad to the obelisk, it goes to the devil's gorge and the amphitheater. With a bit of imagination, you can discover a multitude of other animals, faces, or objects in the red rocks - and we certainly do not lack imagination.

We then make a short and rather unspectacular stop in Alemania, an abandoned train station with a small village around it. In the evening, we return to Salta and prepare for the next trip.

Tour to Tolar Grande

Already the next day, the four of us start a guided tour towards Tolar Grande, accompanied by the laid-back guide Renato. We head west from Salta, going higher and higher. At the highest point, we reach just under 4,500 meters above sea level - so coca leaves are on everyone's lips again. The journey takes a while but is once again a spectacle in itself. After brief stops in Tastil and San Antonio de los Cobres, where we have some food and visit a small museum, the real adventure begins. Thanks to the 4x4 vehicle, we have no problems on the red route, despite minimal rain. Once we arrive at the high plateau, we pass through a labyrinth of sandstone hills, nearly completely dried salt flats, and over more mountains until we reach Tolar Grande. We see wild llamas, donkeys, and for the first time, vicuñas - close relatives of llamas, alpacas, and guanacos that we had already seen further south. In the small village, we move into a small cottage for the night and strengthen ourselves with dinner at a nearby simple restaurant (without a menu).

On the second day of the tour, three points were on the agenda. In the morning, we first visited the Ojos del Mar. These partially several meters deep water holes in the salt flats create beautiful reflections in the morning sunlight. In strong contrast, the second stop. In a red wasteland full of hills, rocks, and sand dunes, we find El Arenal. A short hike uphill - at an altitude of almost 3,500 meters, not to be underestimated - is rewarded with a breathtaking view. After a short lunch break, the highlight of the tour awaits. After almost 2 hours of driving through the Salar Tolar Grande, we first catch sight of Cono de Arita from a distance. This nearly 200-meter-high hill, which the researchers cannot quite explain where it comes from and why it is standing here - because it does not fit into the landscape from a geological perspective - stands out in the middle of the salt flats. It is definitely a cool photo motif and the surrounding area once again astounds us.

On the way back, we make numerous additional photo stops, mainly at the request of the female guests on this tour. Our funny and very pleasant guide Renato lets out a sigh here and there but of course fulfills every request.

Before dinner, there is a small surprise from the tour guide and we drive into the desert for a short champagne aperitif to enjoy the sunset. The subsequent dinner is essentially the end of the tour.

On the third and final day, we mainly drive the longer route from Tolar Grande back to Salta. After several photo, toilet, and refreshment stops, it is already evening when we arrive in Salta.

Our small travel group disbanded here because the two of us are heading to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile tonight. So we bid farewell to everyone, but we will probably see each other somewhere again. After all, we have the same travel route in mind for the next 3-4 months.