08.11.2016 Australia # from Rainbow Beach via Airlie Beach to Townsville # Island life reloaded

It seems that I made a translation mistake in the last article. Nurse Sharks are actually Nurse Sharks and belong to the most peaceful of their kind. On the other hand, the sharks at Wolf Rock are Grey Nurse Sharks, also known as Sand Tiger Sharks in German, which are related to Tiger Sharks but thankfully do not have their level of aggression. Just for those who are interested in biology.

So, as planned, we leave Rainbow Beach and soon drive north on the Bruce Highway. Our next destination, Rockhampton, is about 500km away. The drive is quite monotonous, but we are not in a hurry and make a few stops. Our 'Loose' doesn't offer anything interesting within a reasonable distance on either side of the highway, so we have no reason to leave it and arrive in Rockhampton in the afternoon. We booked the Travellodge the day before. Since we will only be staying there for one night, a good view is the only criterion for booking. And we have that from the seventh floor overlooking the Fitzroy River. Rockhampton is known for its good beef, so we naturally ride to the steakhouse 'Rips and Rumps' in the evening and are not disappointed. Large portions at a reasonable price.

The next morning, we continue our journey around 9:00 am. The drive to Airlie Beach is similar in length to the previous day, and we don't want to arrive there too late to possibly secure a dive for the next day. The websites of the two providers that are suitable are partially contradictory, so we prefer to negotiate face to face rather than blindly book something. After a long search, we decided on the 'Seaview Apartments'. Everything else is either too expensive or has shared bathrooms, which is not an option. We arrive there in the early afternoon and can check in right away. The apartment is quite large and well-equipped, but a bit run-down and dirty. No problem, we will only be here for three days.

We immediately head out to visit the first of the two dive centers. On the way, we stop at a tour booth and have to be informed that pure diving trips are very rare and usually only available on weekends. Well, if you want to dive here, you have to book a day trip with additional programs. However, we don't want to miss the chance to see the Great Barrier Reef, so we let ourselves be persuaded to take a trip to Whitsunday Island. It's supposed to be nice there with the white beach and all.

The next morning, we are picked up promptly at 7:10 am at the accommodation and taken to Abell Point Marina. Our boat, the 'Mantaray', is designed for 36 passengers. Fortunately, it is not fully booked on this day, so we don't have to sit cramped. Except for a diver who is taking a course, we are the only divers on board. The journey to Whitsunday passes by picturesque rocky islands with a unique landscape. On board, we team up with two Germans, Karin and Daniel from Cologne, and immediately start talking about traveling in general and Australia in particular. After a considerable hour's drive, we are taken ashore by a dinghy. Those who want to swim at White Haven are advised to bring their 3mm wetsuit. There are no protective nets there against the dangerous box jellyfish, and an affected tourist is bad for business.

After a short walk through the bush to the other side of the island, we soon find ourselves at a viewpoint overlooking White Haven. It looks pretty, but we are already a bit saturated with beautiful beaches, so we take our photos and continue on. When we finally stand on the snow-white sand in the blazing sun, I am almost tempted to jump into the water. Without a wetsuit, of course, because it is on the boat :-) But I resist the temptation and only go in up to my ankles. Very dangerous indeed. For Karin and Daniel, it is their first time using a wetsuit, and we help them squeeze into it. After an hour, the fun is already over, and we are taken back to the 'Mantaray', where a delicious lunch awaits us. It's a shame that it's served before the diving, so we can't really indulge properly. In the meantime, the captain sets course for Mantaray Bay, and we sail leisurely there. Unfortunately, the tour is more focused on snorkelers, and the dive site doesn't offer much. It's relatively shallow and more rocky than coral reef. In addition, the visibility is quite mediocre due to the beginning change in tides. Bryce, our guide, is surely more used to less experienced divers. So he swims his beginner's route in a not very ambitious way but lets us do our thing when we deviate from his course. After a considerable three-quarters of an hour, we surface with half-full tanks, expecting a longer surface interval. However, there is none. We quickly change our tanks (now we only receive half the size) and after a quarter of an hour, we are already back in the water. My camera only comes into play under the boat, where a big Napoleon is circling undisturbed. The whole thing is somewhat disappointing, considering that besides the boat charter, we have to pay extra for diving. Ultimately, it was still a nice day, and we console ourselves with having seen something of the area.

An enjoyable side effect during our stay in Airlie Beach is the annual music festival, which will take place from November 3rd to 6th this year. That means free live music in many bars. So we take advantage of the next day to join in despite the rain. More by accident, as we just want to take cover, we hear the 'Urban Chiefs' at 'Cactus Jacks' around noon. Not bad music. In the evening, we settle down at 'Magnum'. Smoking is allowed in the beer garden, so we patiently wait for the performance of 'The Lyrical'. And it's a good thing too, as the guys play a captivating sound for over two hours with partly original and partly cover songs, and the audience fully gets into it.

We have thought for a long time about where to go next. It should be something with the ocean at our doorstep. We finally decide on Magnetic Island off Townsville. Here, there is a dive center that visits the wreck of the 'Yongala', supposedly the best spot in Australia and therefore my primary goal. Contacting Pleasure Divers by email finally brings disappointment. The next two tours are so inconveniently timed that they are not suitable for us. What a bummer. Well, we'll still go there, as the ferry tickets are already booked. From Townsville, we will take the 'Fantasea' car ferry over to the island in half an hour. On the way, we have the opportunity to observe dolphins. The 'Beachside Palms Apartments' in Nelly Bay are quickly found, and thanks to a phone call, the key is already waiting for us when we arrive. The place is once again quite nice, and we could stay here longer. The best part is the view from the breakfast table directly onto the sea, magnificent. Meanwhile, the rear terrace is next to a tropical garden, where all sorts of exotic creatures, mostly birds, gather. So we are not surprised when unfamiliar noises can be heard next to our bedroom window at night.

We stop by Pleasure Divers again. As it turns out, they only dive around the island. They have 'Adrenalin Dive' in Townsville take care of everything going to the Great Barrier Reef or the 'Yongala'. However, they also collect their share from it. Strange behavior. After Maike learns about the prices, she decides not to go to the Barrier Reef. Meanwhile, I book the day tour for myself, unaware that it is not worth the money.

In the evening, the car gets a shower from the garden hose, as it has gotten some saltwater on the crossing. Following a dark premonition, we study the rental agreement again in detail. Oops, it actually says there, 'You may not bring this car to ...Magnetic Island'. Great, they didn't inform us about any restrictions when we picked up the car. But, those who can read have an advantage. Hopefully, there won't be any trouble when returning the car.

The next morning, as agreed, I am picked up shortly before 8 am at the ferry terminal. The boat is smaller and narrower than the 'Mantaray' in Airlie Beach and quite well booked. Someone quickly briefs me on the boat regulations in fast Australian-English. As it is always the same, I limit myself to nodding in agreement, even though I only understand half. I am asked if I would agree to dive with a female Divemaster who is also a customer on board. This way, we could dive without a guide. Wait, didn't I already pay for one? Nevertheless, I agree, and after a while, Laura joins me, a slightly older New Zealander who has been living in Perth for three years. She is nice, and she speaks understandable English, so we immediately start talking. Over time, it turns out that we have quite similar ideas about diving. When she hears that I have dived the 'Coolidge', she is really excited. In January or February, she will also be on Espiritu. I have a good feeling, as we both have cameras with us, we should have a similar pace. When we reach the dive site 'Lodestone', we go straight into the water as the first ones. Laura has a compass and will lead the dive. At twelve meters, she suddenly turns off, and before we know it, we find ourselves in a shallow area that seems to have no end. There are coral blocks that are beautifully overgrown but also large areas with coral rubble. However, when you see the guides wrapping the anchor chains around intact blocks, you shouldn't be surprised. The use of dragging anchors does the rest to the state of the reef.

When we return to the boat after 82 minutes, we have spent more than an hour at 6m or less. It can be interesting too, but it's not what I had in mind. Laura also promises improvement for the second dive, and so we almost reach the 20m mark :-) The good thing is that, unlike in Australia, the dive time is not limited. Only the condition is to be back on board before the planned departure of the boat. Since we go into the water on time after the surface interval, we can also extend the second dive to 68 minutes. For the first time, a Panther Grouper swims in front of my camera, and I'm happy that I can take a reasonably usable picture. Otherwise, there are hardly any interesting subjects. All in all, the trip was a bit disappointing and not worth the money. I expected more from the Great Barrier Reef. But you live and learn.

Meanwhile, Maike is waiting for my return at the marina and sees her first 'wild' kangaroo or wallaby or whatever it was.

In the evening, I start experiencing pain in my groin and fever. I hope it's nothing serious.

On our last day on Magnetic Island, we go on a 5km bushwalk. As a precaution, I took antibiotics and feel halfway fit. On the way to the ruins of an American WWII fort, we actually encounter a wild koala. So they do exist :-) From the highest point of the fort, there is a magnificent 330° view over the island, which looks as if someone forgot to clean up after playing with giant rocks. After two hours of walking in the scorching heat, we are glad when we reach our air-conditioned vehicle again. But the effort was definitely worth it, especially because of the koala.

Tomorrow we will leave the island and continue driving north. We don't have much time left in Queensland, so let's see what we can make of it.