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El hielo negro

Publicado: 24.08.2023

The second largest glacier in Norway should now have its own chapter. The start from Jektvika began with the usual pleasant temperatures of around 15 degrees. It was a bit cloudy, the mountains almost always had a cloud edge.

I can only recommend coastal road 17, it really leads through picturesque areas. It is also occasionally used by cyclists, but there are also special cycle paths. It was impressively described to me how unpleasant it was to drive through the long, cold, dark tunnels. This is not pleasant for a bicycle trip, especially since every vehicle noise is amplified and reverberate for a long time.

It's not always the same for me either. In the area around the Svartisen glacier I turned onto a side road to do some hiking in the mountains later. There were also tunnels on this branch line. Like all tunnels in the past, these were pitch black. With an estimated length of 2km, the tunnel journey has therefore already dragged on ...

But the later sight of the mountains to the west of the glacier was worth it. There are also said to be old stone carvings around Lake Fykanvatnet. Unfortunately I didn't find them.

During the further journey I liked the imposing mountains again and again, especially those that have already been rounded off, i.e. have been under thick layers of ice several times. There are some areas where houses are built directly on the large, flat rocks.

Shortly before arriving in Bodø I was able to observe the strongest tidal current, the Saltstraumen. Although it was already 2 hours after the strongest water inflow from the Atlantic into the Sound, it was still worth seeing. Due to the change in the tides, the water is to be pushed through the 2.5 km long and 150 m wide sound at about 40 km/h at the peak. There are huge whirlpools.

I observed great natural phenomena today and another fine day comes to an end.


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